Sewing instructions blouse Uma

In this tutorial, Uma was sewn from a soft viscose.

→ To the “Uma” pattern

Just for your information:

Required materials:

We recommend viscose, cotton poplin or silk.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 3/4 sleeves 1.50 m (140 cm wide)
• Outer fabric long sleeve 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3/4 sleeves 1.90 m (140 cm wide)
• Outer fabric long sleeve 2.00 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Cuff fabric 0.15 m 60 cm wide
• Insert 0.60 m 140 cm wide
• Buttons 6 pieces 10 mm diameter
• Rubber 0.60 m 2 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back piece, undercollar, upper collar, and collar stand on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x or 4x sleeves-bottom opposite

also with insert:

• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 2x collar stay in the fold

You will need from rib:

• 2x sleeve cuffs

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the dart, sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Double-iron the front edge and iron it over. Pay attention to the notches in the pattern.

Now you can sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. Then iron them to the back.

Sew the shoulder seams together, right sides together, and then neaten them. Press the seam allowances to the back.

Now it's time to prepare the collar. Place the upper and lower collars right sides together and stitch them together. Press the seam allowances apart to make it easier to turn the collar later. At corners, trim the seam allowances with scissors and then cut or trim them. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning the fabric inside out, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges; this flattens them and secures them.

For the outer collar stand, iron the lower cut edge 1cm.

Then place the inner collar stand, right sides together, against the upper collar and stitch it in place. Note the extra width in the upper collar; push it up slightly when sewing it on, so it's edge to edge.

Now you can place the prepared outer seam, right sides together, against the undercollar and stitch it through. For curves, trim the seam allowances with scissors and then cut or trim them. This prevents the curve from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend using a shorter stitch length inside the curve. This ensures a curve that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge former and then iron them. I have a little tip for you regarding further processing: Stitch a coarse-stitched auxiliary seam directly to the right of the ironed edge of the outer collar for later reference.

Here you can see a detailed view of the prepared collar.

Now place the collar into the neckline of the closed front and back pieces. Place the inner collar stand, right sides together, into the neckline and sew a seam to the left of your previously sewn auxiliary seam. This ensures that the seam on the outer stand also just touches the inner edge. Note the notches in the pattern. Then press the seam allowances upwards.

Now stitch the outer seam through, close to the edge. Use a needle to help you along the seam.

Here you can see a view of the left side of the fabric and that the seam was also close to the edge.

Now it's time to work on the sleeve. If you want to sew in piping, place the piping right sides together on the sleeve and stitch it in place.

Sew the sleeve bottom right sides together to the piping, neaten the seam allowances together and iron them down.

Now you can also sew the inner arm seam, right sides together, and neaten it together. Note the seam allowances in the pattern and press them back.

Finish the cuffs by joining them in a round, right sides together, ironing the seam allowances open, and folding them wrong sides together. Sew a large-stitched auxiliary seam to secure both layers of fabric.

Now stitch the prepared cuffs to the sleeves, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. Iron the seam allowances upwards.

There's a box pleat at the shoulder seam in the sleeve. Position this according to the pattern and stitch it in place with a stitch marker.

Now place the finished sleeves into the correct armhole, right sides together, stitch them in place and neaten the seam allowances.

Neaten the hem of your blouse all around,…

... iron it according to the clips in the pattern and stitch the hem close to the edge.

Finally, all you have to do is pick out the right buttons, make buttonholes, and sew the buttons on.

Your UMA is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team