The Uli cardigan belongs to the combination cuts category. You have the opportunity to sew two completely different models with one pattern. The jacket has a stand-up collar and closes with two printers that are sewn on by hand. The sweater vest has an identical back part, a front part with a wrap effect and a V-neck. The sleeve length of both tops ends slightly above the elbow, making them ideal for wearing over blouses with statement sleeves.
Length at center back = 52 - 58 cm
In these instructions, Uli was sewn from a cotton blend.
Required material:
We recommend a knit or sweat fabric.
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric jacket | 1.40 m | 140cm wide |
| Outer fabric sweater vest | 1.40 m | 140cm wide | |
| Sizes 44-50 | Outer fabric jacket | 1.60 m | 140cm wide |
| Outer fabric sweater vest | 1.80 m | 140cm wide | |
| Sizes 34-50 | Snaps | 2 pieces | 16mm diameter |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back and collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
What you need from fabric:
- 1x back part in the break
- 1x collar in the break
- 2x front part opposite
Sewing instructions:
To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
When sewing the sweater vest : First sew the shoulder seams together and finish them. Then you can neaten the cutout edges in the front pieces and the neck hole in the back piece in one go. Iron the neckline according to the clips and stitch it in place. Continue from the 5th picture
Start your sewing work by overcasting the hems and front facing edges.
Then iron the sleeve hem, hem and front edge in the fold according to the pattern.
The back part is also neatened at the hems...
... and ironed out according to the cut.
Now place the back piece right sides together with the front pieces and close both the side and shoulder seams. Finish the seam allowances together and then iron them backwards.
Sew the previously ironed hem and sleeve hems in place.
Before you fasten the collar together, neaten the raw edge of the inner collar.
Now place the collar on top of each other in a fold, right sides together, and tuck the short sections.
Turn the collar right side out and iron it flat.
Now sew the outer collar, right sides together, to the back and front neck hole up to the tip of the front facing. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.
Iron the seam allowances of the neck hole section of the front part apart, iron the seam allowances of the back neck hole upwards and tuck the seam allowances in slightly.
This is what the almost finished collar looks like.
You can now place the front of the ironed apart seam allowances on top of each other, like when making a lapel, and stitch them together.
The serged inner collar is stitched from the right in the shadow of the seam. To be on the safe side, needle the route.
Finally, secure the facing tips to the seam allowances of the shoulder seam...
... and sew your snaps in the right position.
Your ULI is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.
