SEWING INSTRUCTIONS ADD-ON BLOUSE "MATHILDA"

The ruffled sleeve add-on for our Mathilda blouse. Anyone who already owns the classic version of Mathilda can download the sleeve extension and you already have 2 versions of this great raglan blouse.

Length at center back = 65-71 cm

Mathilda Add-On was sewn from a Tencel in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Mathilda”

→ To the pattern “Mathilda Add-On”

Required material:

We recommend a softly flowing viscose or a polyester or silk satin.

Sizes 34-50

outer fabric

0.30 m

140cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

• 4x sleeve ruffle

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

As a first step, the lower edge of the ruffle is trimmed, as well as the shoulder and the lower edge of the sleeves (see photo) up to the notches in the pattern.

Here we show you how to sew a right/left seam, also known as a French seam. The seams of lighter and/or transparent woven fabrics are beautifully finished and you don't need an overlock seam. That is why the raw edges are “hidden” in a French seam. All you need is a straight stitch and an iron. Lay your pattern pieces on top of each other, wrong sides together. Yes, you read that right: the right side of the fabric is facing out on both pieces. This contradicts the "normal" processing, in which the fabric is always laid right sides together so that the seam allowances are on the inside. The seam is sewn together with 0.5 cm.

The seam allowance is now unusually visible on the outside on the right side of the fabric. The seam allowances are ironed apart. You can also iron them together to one side. In general, we recommend that you do not skip ironing with this type of processing.

Now lay the layers right sides together and iron the seam so that there is a break or an edge. The sleeve is sewn up with 1cm. The 0.5cm sewn seam allowance disappears into it and the fabric sides are right sides together. The seam allowance is ironed towards the back. You can also use this type of seam for shoulder and side seams.

This is what the finished seam looks like from the inside.

Then the previously trimmed shoulder and the lower sleeve are sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance.

In the last step, the seam allowance is flat-stitched so that the ruffle stands up nicely. For this, the seam allowance is placed in the blouse and stitched through.

If you have already sewn the Mathilda blouse and would like to add the ruffles afterwards, simply trim the raw edge of the inner circle, pin it into the sleeve slit and sew firmly with the quilting line of the sleeve slit. If you prefer to work with the French seam, then simply open the topstitching and work as in the instructions.

Your MATHILDA ADD-ON is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.