Level : for experienced
In this tutorial, Aarhus was sewn from a thin cotton print.
Required material:
We recommend a cotton poplin or linen , but you can just as well use viscose or silk .
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric | 2.10m | 140cm wide |
| inlay | 0.10m | 90cm wide | |
| Buttons | 5 pcs. | 1.5 cm diameter | |
| Sizes 40-50 | Outer fabric | 2.60m | 140cm wide |
| inlay | 0.10m | 90cm wide | |
| Buttons | 5 pcs. | 1.5 cm diameter |
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back, front, yoke and front inserts on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold because this is always a center.
You will need fabric:
- 1x front part in the fracture
- 1x back part in fracture
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
Additionally with insert strips and shaping tape:
- 2x yoke opposite with shaping tape in the inner yoke
- 1x front insert transition in the fracture
- 1x front insert underlap in the fold
Sewing instructions:
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
You start with the front inserts. Fold the inserts right sides together and turn the neck hole. Then clip the seam allowance so that it fits nicely into the curve.
You mark the buttonholes on the overlay insert and punch them in according to your button size. We will sew the buttons on at the very end.
The front insert is now sewn into the front part. First, place the upper and lower flaps on top of each other according to the cutting instructions and fix them with a stitch at the bottom end. At the top, simply pin them together with a needle.
You pin the front piece right sides together to the insert. When doing so, cut the corners in the front piece.
Now you can close the seam and neaten the seam allowance together. This is ironed into the front piece.
Then stitch 0.5cm around the insert.
Now it's the yoke's turn: You lay the inner yoke on the table with the right side of the fabric facing up. You lay the front piece with the right side facing up on the shoulder seam of the yoke. Now the outer yoke is pinned on top with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Please note that there is now a 1cm seam allowance at the neck hole. You need this because the shoulder seams and the back neck hole can now be sewn through in one go.
As with the front neck hole, you also clip the seam here and trim the corners.
The yoke is folded back and you can iron the shoulder and neck hole. Then topstitch the front edge and the neck hole 0.5cm.
Now take the back piece, iron the pleat onto the yoke seam and secure it with a stitch.
Now it gets tricky, but ingenious: the burrito technique
First, sew the outer back yoke right sides together to the back piece.
You lay the blouse out on the table with the right side facing up.
You roll the front part up to the shoulder seam
Do the same with the back piece until the already attached yoke seam is at the top.
You take the loose yoke part, enclose the front and back parts with it and sew it to the already attached yoke part.
Now please don't bite into the burrito, but pull the front and back pieces out of the side of the burrito and your super neatly finished yoke is ready... great, right?
Now you can sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron these to the front.
Finally , the hem is finished, folded up 3cm and stitched.
Now let’s start with the sleeve.
You take the upper sleeve, pin the folds along the notches and sew them according to the cutting instructions, then iron the fold contents towards the side seam.
You place the upper and lower sleeves right sides together and close the upper arm seam and the side seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and both seam allowances are ironed into the upper sleeve.
Finally, sew the sleeve hem. Fold it in and over 1x 1cm and 1x 2cm and topstitch it.
The sleeve is now complete and can be sewn into the prepared body, right sides together. Pay attention to the notches in the pattern. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.
Almost done: The buttons just need to be sewn on and your AARHUS is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Best regards, Ellen
