NÄHANLEITUNG BOMBERJACKE “TIFFANY”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BOMBER JACKET “TIFFANY”

The Tiffany bomber jacket has a short waist and a slightly oversized cut. The hems are close to the body thanks to the ribbed cuffs. The zipper in the center front and the pointed stand-up collar are clearly reminiscent of a classic blouson . The seam pockets in the side seam do not interrupt the pattern or the clean look of the short jacket .

→ To the pattern “Tiffany”

Length at center back = 46-55 cm

In this pattern, Tiffany was sewn from a checked wool fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a thicker wool fabric and an elastic cuff fabric

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 1.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 1.60 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-42 Lining fabric 1.10 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Lining fabric 1.20 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-42 Rib fabric 0.40m 80 cm wide at the break
Sizes 44-50 Rib fabric 0.50 m 80 cm wide at the break
Sizes 34-50 inlay 0.65m 90cm wide
Sizes 34-50 Volume cotton 0.20m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 Zipper tlb. 1 piece 46-55 cm long

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvages parallel to the middle so that you can place the back, facing and waistband in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut pieces and a video about cutting checks.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in the break
  • 2x side panels in opposite directions
  • 2x front part opposite
  • 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x undersleeves matched
  • 1x collar

also with form band:

  • 1x neck hole back part
  • 2x armhole back part
  • 2x armhole side part
  • 2x neck hole front part
  • 2x armhole front part

also with insert:

  • 1x receipt at the back in the break
  • 2x receipt front opposite

You need cotton wool:

  • 1x collar

You will need knitted fabric:

  • 1x waistband in break
  • 2x cuffs

You need lining material:

  • 1x back part in the break
  • 2x side panels in opposite directions
  • 2x front part opposite
  • 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x undersleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket bag side part in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket bag front part opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this bomber jacket you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart, please sew this according to the cut. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Start with the seam pockets in the front. As the name suggests, these pockets are integrated into a seam. Sew a pocket bag front piece, right sides together, to the matching front piece. Make sure you only stitch through the opening, as you will need the seam allowance to close the pocket bag later.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the pocket bag, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the pocket bag is stitched onto the seam allowances with a narrow edge.

Sew a pocket bag side piece, right sides together, to the matching side piece.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the pocket bag, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the pocket bag is stitched onto the seam allowances with a narrow edge.

Now connect the front piece with the side piece, right sides together. Sew once from the hem to the clip, the fly and once from the armhole to the clip.

Then all you have to do is sew the pocket bags together all around. Use an auxiliary seam to secure the bag at the hem of the front piece and iron the center front according to the pattern.

You can also secure the pocket openings with a latch. Now the front part is prepared...

... and can be connected to the back at the side and shoulder seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. You then iron these apart.

Now take your cut cuff, place it, right sides together, on the hem of the jacket and insert pins according to the clips. When sewing together, stretch the cuff evenly to fit the hem of the jacket. You iron or place the seam allowances upwards, as they will later be sewn together from the inside.

Now you can get out your matching zipper or shorten it to the appropriate length: you can find it in our sewing tips “Shortening metal zippers”.

Place your tear in the correct position on the cuff (clips from the fold) and stitch it, right sides together, edge-to-edge with the front raw edge. The ironed-over fold later covers the teeth of the ripper.

The facings are connected together, right to right, and the seam allowances are ironed apart.

Then place the hem of the facings, right sides together, on the inner cuff and stitch them together. Make sure to stop 1cm beforehand so that you can sew the lining to the facing later.

Then fold everything, right sides together, upwards in the cuff fold and sew the facing onto the zipper and front part with the same edges up to the start of the tear. Iron the seam allowances to the inside.

Secure the batting and outer fabric of the cut collar with an auxiliary seam all around.

Then place both, wrong sides together, and stitch the bottom edges together with an auxiliary seam.

Now place the prepared collar with the tip of the collar against the ironed fold, right sides together, on your finished neck hole. Pay attention to the clips in the cut and hold the collar in a little.

The facing is placed on the neck hole with collar, right sides together, and stitched through. Make sure that the ironed fold is now exactly at the end and the tear seam is moved inwards.

Now come to the processing of the sleeves. Place the matching undersleeve, right sides together, on the matching upper sleeve and close the seam according to the pattern. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Then close the inner arm seam and iron the seam allowances apart. Pay attention to the clips and seam allowances in the pattern.

The cuffs are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and closed in the round. Iron the seam allowances apart and then iron the fold together, left sides together.

Position the cuff with the seam against the inner arm seam, right sides together, and stitch everything together.

Finally, place the finished sleeve in the correct armhole, right sides together, using the clips in the pattern as a guide. Iron the seam allowance towards the torso in the front, back and shoulder areas.

Now place the lining front parts and lining side parts on top of each other, right sides together, and close the side and dividing seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and iron them backwards.

Now place the lining front pieces and the lining back piece on top of each other, right sides together, and close the shoulder seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and iron them backwards.

The two-seam seam of the lining upper sleeve is placed, right sides together, on the lining lower sleeve and closed. Press the seam allowances back.

You also sew the inner arm seam together, right sides together. The left sleeve is left approx. 10cm open so that the jacket can be turned around later. Pay attention to the seam allowance in the cut and then iron it backwards.

Now place the sleeve, right sides together, into the prepared lining piece and sew everything together.

Now stitch your prepared lining, right sides together, all the way around to your sewn-on facing.

The sleeves are now also sewn together with the lining sleeve, right sides together. Secure the armpit point on the seam allowances of both fabrics.

You secure the shoulder point with an extra band made of lining on the seam allowances of both fabrics.

Now all you have to do is close the hem of your new jacket. Make sure you leave at least 10cm open in the middle back.

After turning your jacket right side out through this opening,...

... you close your hem completely through the opening in the left sleeve.

You also have to sew the edge of this opening closed. The turned jacket is pulled into shape.

Stitch the ironed front edge down, quilting foot wide, all the way through.

Your TIFFANY is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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