Sewing instructions for pleated trousers Asta
Level : medium
Side length = 94cm
ASTA was sewn from Tencel in this tutorial.
Materials needed:
For a flowing drape, we recommend viscose, Tencel or silk.
Pleated trousers also work well in linen or cotton if you want them to have a bit more structure.
Sizes XS-L
- Outer fabric 1.80 m (140 cm wide)
- Elastic band 4cm wide 66cm-84cm
Sizes XL-3XL
- Outer fabric 2.10 m (140 cm wide)
- Elastic band 4cm wide 90cm-106cm
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the pocket bags and waistband on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You will need the following fabric:
- 2x front part, mirror image
- 2x back piece, mirror image
- 1x bundle in the break
- 2x pocket bags opposite each other in the break
Sewing instructions:
To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
First, you pin the pleats in the front piece and secure them with a basting stitch.
Now you prepare everything for the bag making: The pocket bags are finished at the side seams, the front and back pieces are finished in the pocket opening area.
You sew the pocket bag to the front piece in the opening area, right sides together.
You iron the seam allowance into the pocket bag and then topstitch it close to the edge from the right side of the pocket bag.
Now you do exactly the same thing on the back piece with the other side of the pocket bag, except that here you DO NOT topstitch the seam allowance.
The front and back pieces are placed right sides together....
...then you close the side seam from the hem to the lower pocket opening, securing it well, then from the upper pocket opening to the waist. The seam allowance is finished together along the long stretch and pressed forward.
Now the pocket bag is sewn closed at the bottom edge and the seam allowance is finished together.
You also sew the small piece of pocket bag/side seam closed, and you secure the upper edge of the pocket bag to the waist with a basting stitch.
Clip the seam allowance of the pocket bag twice, see photo.
Next, you close the inseam right sides together, neaten the seam allowance and iron it forwards as well.
You should now have two identical trouser legs.
Now the crotch seam is closed. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, then insert this trouser leg into the other, unturned leg, so that the crotch seam lies nicely aligned.
Now close the crotch seam. Make sure the inseams are aligned. Finish the seam allowance together and press it in one direction, front and back, up to the curve.
You turn the trousers right side out and start on finishing the hem.
Finish the edge, iron it over by 2 cm, and topstitch it. The hem is now complete.
Your ASTA is finished!
If you ever get stuck or have any questions, feel free to contact me by email at mail@anjakoenecke.de
We will reply to you as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your pattern team and Johanna Junker