Sewing instructions blouse Viktoria

Viktoria is a variable cut, it includes two lengths, a blouse length and a dress length . The special detail is the deep sleeves, which gives it the look of a bat sleeve. In addition, sewing on the ruffle is optional, if you prefer a pure style, then do without the ruffle cut. The blouse collar and the button placket in the center front complete the casual and spring-like look Blouse.

Length at the center back of the blouse = 77-84 cm and at the dress = 97-103 cm.

In these instructions, Viktoria was sewn from a viscose fabric.

→ To the pattern “Viktoria”

Required material:

We recommend viscose, cotton poplin or silk, preferably with a bit of body.

Sizes 34-40

• Outer fabric blouse length 2.00 m 140 cm wide
• Outer fabric dress length 2.30 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 424-50

• Outer fabric blouse length 2.40 m 140 cm wide
• Outer fabric dress length 2.60 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.90 m 90 cm wide
• Buttons/blouse 10 pieces 8-10 mm diameter
• Buttons/dress 13 pieces 8-10 mm diameter

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part, collar stand, upper and lower collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x ruffle
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x slot strips

also with insert:

• 1x undercollar in break
• 1x upper collar in break
• 2x collar stand in break
• 4x cuff, 2 each of the same kind

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Iron and over the front edge of the front pieces according to the pattern.

Sew the shoulder seams right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and press them to the back.

Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and sew the upper seam. Then iron the seam allowances apart.

Also close the short stretch to the point of the collar right sides together. For corners, seam allowances are cut off with scissors. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges to flatten them out and secure them.

Lay the lower cut edges of both collars neatly on top of each other and secure them with an auxiliary seam the width of a foot. The upper collar has a fullness so that it can be folded down later.

Fold over the lower section of the outer collar stand 1cm.

Place the outer and inner collar bands on the prepared collar, right sides together, and stitch everything together.

Now you stitch an auxiliary seam on the inner bar along the ironed outer bar. In this way you guarantee a later correct stitching line on the outer and inner bridge.

Pin the inner bar right sides together at the neckline and stitch through 1mm next to your guide line so that it is not visible from the inside. Press the seam allowances up.

Now you also sew the outside bar to the neckline, right sides together. In doing so, you preferably hit the inner bridge just below the edge.

Next up is the sleeve slit.

Here is a more detailed description of processing a curled slot.

Pre-iron the slit strips for the sleeve slit.

Place the sleeve slit between the strips and sew through the edge.

Now you can fix the upper corner of the slit on the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards.

With right sides together, sew sleeves into correct armhole position and neaten seam allowances together. Then iron them backwards.

You neaten the side and inner arm seams in one go.

Then sew the side and inner arm seams right sides together and iron them apart.

Now come to the processing of the cuff. Place the inner and outer cuffs right sides together and close the slightly wider hem seam.

Iron the seam allowances apart and turn everything right side out. Then iron over the seam allowance of the inner cuff's attachment seam by 1 cm.

Sew the side seams right sides together. For corners, seam allowances are cut off with scissors. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to ruffle a stretch.

Prepare the sleeve hems with the gathering seams.

Stitch the finished outer cuff to the ruffle, right sides together.

Here you can see a photo where you look into the cuff.

Fold everything right side out and stitch just under the edge on the outer cuff, while doing so you also meet the edge of the inner cuff and everything is tight.

Clean the hem of the blouse all around.

Iron the hem of the blouse according to the pattern and sew it in place.

The ruffle is finished with raw edges, prepare it by gathering as desired.

Stitch the ruffle to the position of the blouse.

First make the buttonholes according to the pattern and then sew on the buttons.

Your VIKTORIA is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.