Sewing instructions for the Noemi cut-out blouse

March 18, 2021

Blouses and tops with cutouts are very fashionable, so we don't want to deprive you of this unique look. Noemi's highlight is not only the cutouts on the shoulder and front neckline, but also the sleeve hem is given a slightly bell-shaped shape by an inserted godet. Since sleeve details are still a big thing, Noemi is an absolute must-have and can be perfectly combined with skirts and trousers. The cutouts are not the easiest to work with, so Noemi is more suitable for advanced sewers.

Length at the center back = 66 – 74 cm

→ To the “Noemi” pattern

TIP: If you prefer a closed shoulder, these lines are included in the pattern with a corresponding note.

Noemi was sewn from viscose in this tutorial.

Required materials:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, silk, or polyester satin.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	1.40 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	1.80 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.30 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	buttons	2 x	8 mm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . Lay the fabric open with the right side facing up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front piece, front facing, and front facing on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold of the fabric, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing roughly first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

You will need fabric:

1x front part in the break
2x back part opposite
2x Cut Out Receipt (VT&RT in one) opposite
1x button loop
2x sleeves opposite
2x sleeve godet
2x sleeve facing opposite

also with insert:

2x aperture-front in the break
1x receipt-front in the break
4x rear panel 2x each opposite
1x neckline lace in the front part

also with form tape (only stick on the inner panel):

2x inner panel at the back of the neck hole
1x inner panel in the front neck hole

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We begin by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

The hem of the front piece is neatened and then ironed 1 cm.

The tip of the neckline is covered with an extra insert before processing with the neckline facing.

The facing cut in half for the neckline is neatened at the lower cut edge…

...and then, right sides together, place it on the front piece and turn it. For points, trim the seam allowances with scissors. The seam allowances can be neatly laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

We also trimmed the top corners of the facing. This is useful for thicker fabrics.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward rather than curling out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Here you can see an extra detailed photo of the flat-stitched facing.

This is what the neckline of your blouse looks like from the inside.

The center back of the back pieces are individually finished from the hem to the beginning of the slit.

Then, place both back pieces, right sides together, and sew them together with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open.

The hem of the back is neatened and then ironed 1 cm.

The slit in the back is folded in and over twice, 1cm each.

Here's a detailed photo of the ironed slit. It's best to topstitch it close to the edge afterward.

Finish the shoulder seams on the front and back pieces separately. Then place the front piece, right sides together, on the back piece and sew the shoulders together. Press the seam allowances open.

Iron the lower curve of the inner panels over 1cm.

Next, both the outer and inner facings are placed, right sides together, and the shoulder seams are closed. The seam allowances are pressed open.

Place the inner facing on the outer facing, right sides together, and sew it together. Make sure the shoulder seams line up neatly. Trim the seam allowances to ensure the curves lie neatly.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the inner facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward rather than curling up. Only the inner facing is stitched close to the seam allowances. The stitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Here's a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam allowance. The facing is then folded, wrong sides together, and ironed flat.

To help you sew the facing to your torso later without any problems, we'll let you in on a little sewing trick: Sew a gusset seam, using a larger stitch, very close to the inner facing. Be careful not to accidentally sew the facings together.

Here you can see a detailed photo with the suggested auxiliary seam.

For the eyelets, you can also watch our sewing video for the pulled-through roll.

The strip, cut on the bias, is placed right sides together along the fold. Starting at the top with the seam, leave a wider opening (for a school cone), shrink it and topstitch to the fold, the width of the stitching foot. Using a thick thread and a large needle, the roll can be pulled through. Push the blunt end of the needle into the opening and pull the seam allowance through.

Your eyelets for the two buttons in the panel are ready.

The finished eyelets are placed at the markings in the pattern on the right side of the body, taking the button size into account, and sewn in place. Then, place the short sides (center back) of the facing, right sides together, and sew them together.

This is what your right side panel looks like. Since we haven't yet closed the side seams of the torso, it's easy to sew on the facing. Pin the facing to the torso and then sew 1mm (inward) next to your auxiliary seam. This way, you can be sure that you'll also secure the pressed hem edge when you topstitch it through.

Now you can finally close the panel by stitching close to the edge (viewed from the right) and sewing on the inner panel at the same time.

The cut-out facings of the front and back pieces, as well as the sleeve facings, are finished at the bottom edge.

The cutout facings are placed, right sides together, against the cutouts of the front and back pieces and sewn in place. The seam allowances are clipped in place.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Likewise, the sleeve facings are placed, right sides together, at the sleeve cutout and sewn in place. The seam allowances are also clipped in place here.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Close the sleeve right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5cm up to the notch of the godet.

The hems of the godet and sleeves are folded over and doubled by 0.5 cm. Since the curve of the godet is very round, it might help to topstitch a 0.5 cm seam and hold it in place by pulling the bobbin thread.

The ironed material is then stitched through and close to the edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the hems of the godet and the sleeve.

Now the godet can be placed, right sides together, on the inner arm seam and closed with 1.5cm.

Only now is the inner arm seam finished. The sleeve seam is finished separately and ironed apart, while the godet seam is finished together with the inner arm seam. The top point of the godet is tucked in to prevent fraying.

This is what the hem of the finished godet looks like. The threads of the finishing seam are pulled upwards and hidden with a large needle.

This is what your godet sleeve looks like after you have finished it.

Place the front and back pieces, right sides together, and close the side seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

The prepared hem is stitched with 0.8 cm.

The sleeve can now be placed into the prepared body, right sides together, and stitched through. To do this, open the facings and continue stitching there as well. The sleeve seam allowances are then neatened together.