SEWING INSTRUCTIONS CUT-OUT BLOUSE “NOEMI”

Blouses and tops with cut-outs are very fashionable, so we don't want to deprive you of this special look. The highlight of Noemi is not only the cut-outs on the shoulder and the front neckline, the sleeve hem is given a somewhat bell-like appearance thanks to an inserted godet. Since sleeve details are still a big topic, Noemi is an absolute must-have and can be easily combined with a skirt and trousers. The cut-outs are not that easy to work with, so Noemi is more for advanced sewers.

Length at center back = 66 – 74 cm

→ To the pattern “Noemi”

TIP: If you prefer a closed shoulder, these lines are included in the pattern with a corresponding note.

In these instructions, Noemi was sewn from viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, silk or polyester satin.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	1.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	1.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.30m	90cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Buttons	2x	8mm diameter

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . Lay the fabric open with the right side of the fabric facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, facing front and facing front in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 2x back pieces opposite
• 2x Cut Out receipts (VT&RT in one) in opposite directions
• 1x button loop
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x sleeve godet
• 2x sleeve facings in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 2x front panel in the break
• 1x receipt at the front in the break
• 4x panels at the back, 2x in opposite directions
• 1x neckline lace in the front

also with forming tape (only stick on the inner panel):

• 2x inner panel at the back of the neck hole
• 1x inner panel in the front neck hole

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing! 

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

The hem of the front part is neatened and then ironed 1cm.

The tip of the cutout is covered with an extra insert before processing with the cutout facing.

The slip cut for the cutout is neatened at the lower cut edge...

...and then, right to right, placed on the front piece and collapsed. For lace, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowances lay nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

We also cut away the top corners of the receipt. This is good for thicker fabrics.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see an extra detailed photo of the flat-stitched cover.

This is what the neckline of your blouse looks like from the inside.

The center back of the back pieces are neatened individually from the hem to the beginning of the slit.

Then both back pieces are placed, right sides together, and closed with 1cm. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem of the back part is neatened and then ironed 1cm.

The slit in the back is folded in and out twice, 1cm each.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the ironed-on slit. You should then preferably topstitch the edge of this.

The shoulder seams of the front and back pieces are serged individually. Then place the front piece, right sides together, on the back piece and sew the shoulders together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

Iron the lower curve of the inner panels 1cm.

Then both the outer and inner panels are placed, right sides together, and the shoulder seams are closed. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The inner band is placed on the outer band, right sides together, and sewn together. Make sure the shoulder seams meet neatly. The seam allowances are cut so that the curve fits nicely.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner panel, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the inner panel is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam allowance. The panel is then placed inside out and ironed flat.

So that you can sew the panel onto your torso later without any problems, we'll show you a little sewing trick! You sew an auxiliary seam, with a larger stitch, very close to the inner band. But be careful not to accidentally sew the panels together.

Here you can see a detailed photo with the suggested auxiliary seam.

For the eyelets, you can also watch our sewing video for the continuous roll.

The strip cut in the diagonal direction of the thread is placed right sides together in the fold. Starting at the top with the seam and leaving a wider opening (school cone), allow it to shrink and topstitch to the fold at the width of a quilting foot. The roll can be pulled through with a thick thread and a large needle. Push the blunt side of the needle into the opening and pull the seam allowance through.

Your eyelets for the two buttons in the panel are ready.

The finished eyelets are placed on the markings in the cut on the right side of the body and sewn in place, taking the button size into account. Then place the short sides (center back) of the panel on top of each other, right sides together, and sew each one together.

This is what your panel on the right side of your body looks like.

Since we haven't closed the side seams of the torso yet, it's easy to sew the panel on. Pin the panel to the body with pins and then sew 1mm (inwards) next to your auxiliary seam, so you can be sure that you will hit the ironed hem edge later when “stitching through” and thus secure it.

Now you can finally close the panel by stitching through the edge as seen from the right and sewing on the inner panel at the same time.

The cut-out facings of the front and back, as well as the sleeve facings, are neatened at the bottom edge.

The cut out facings are placed, right sides together, on the cut out of the front and back pieces and sewn in place. The seam allowances are clipped in.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

The sleeve facings are also placed, right sides together, on the cut out of the sleeve and sewn in place. The seam allowances are also clipped in here.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Close the sleeve right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5cm up to the snap of the godet.

The hems of the godet and sleeves are folded in and turned over twice, 0.5cm. Since the curve of the godet is very round, it might help you to stitch a 0.5cm seam and hold it in place by pulling the bobbin thread.

The ironed piece is then stitched with a narrow edge throughout.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the hems of the godet and sleeves.

Now the godet can be placed, right sides together, on the inner arm seam and closed with 1.5cm.

Now the inner arm seam is finished. That of the arm is serged individually and ironed apart, while that of the godet is serged together with the inner arm seam. The top tip of the godet is folded in and protected from fraying.

This is what the hem of the finished godet looks like. The threads of the overcast seam are pulled upwards with a large needle and hidden.

This is what your godet sleeve looks like after you have processed it.

Place the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and close the side seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance.

The prepared hem is stitched through with 0.8cm.

The sleeve can now be placed in the prepared body, right sides together, and stitched through. To do this, open the receipts and continue quilting there too. The seam allowances of the sleeve are then finished together.

Now you can stitch the receipts through and through. To do this, iron everything into position and pin the receipts on the left. This way, nothing can slip.

Stitch the facings in place.

Finally, sew the two buttons on the panel in the back.

Your NOEMI is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.