Sewing instructions for the Dublin Blouson

You need Food:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
  
• 2x sleeves opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

For sewing For this jacket you need a sewing machine.

If you're using a zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue something.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

We start with the biggest challenge, but then you'll quickly have it behind you: the bags!

You turn one outer flap right sides together with one inner flap.

Trim the seam allowance and clip it in place at the curve and point. Then turn the flap right side out, iron it flat, and topstitch it as desired. In our example, I'll topstitch some seams with a 0.7cm seam allowance.

Want to close your flaps with a button? Now's the time to make the buttonholes.

Now glue a strip of interfacing (20cm x 4cm wide) onto the pocket opening (inside front part) and mark the pocket points.

Iron the strips together, wrong sides together , and place them right sides together with the cut edge at the "more lateral" mark on the pocket.

Now the inner bag (the smaller one) is pinned right sides together onto the placket and both are sewn together onto the front piece.

Trim the seam allowance back 0.5cm to allow enough space on the "other sewing line".

Now you place the flap and the outer pocket bag (the larger one) with the cut edge on the already sewn line and sew it together.

Here, too, trim the seam allowance back to 0.5cm. The two sewing lines should now be parallel and 1cm apart.

Turn the front piece inside out and cut along the center of the two sewing lines, extending into the corners (see photo). Make sure you only cut into the front piece!

Except for the flap, turn everything inside out through the notch. Both pockets should face the center front. Place the two pockets on top of each other, snugly, and stitch them together.

Now you can close the small cut-out "triangles" on the bag. Great!

You have overcome the greatest difficulty!

Next comes the back part:

Place the back right sides together in the fold and stitch at the top and bottom center back according to the cutting marks.

Iron the box pleat in and then stitch the decorative stitching indicated on the pattern from the right side.

Place the front pieces right sides together on the back and sew the shoulder seams together. Press the seam allowances open.

Now the sleeve is prepared:

You'll pull so-called gathering threads into the sleeve cap. These help you achieve even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. At the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, you shouldn't backtack; instead, leave about 10 cm of thread at each end. Sew two gathering seams approximately 1 cm apart, at 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the raw edge, so that the later attachment seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine which area should be gathered.

Now carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you reach the armhole seam width. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.

Sew the sleeve right sides together into the armhole, remove the seam allowances, press the seam allowance into the shoulder and topstitch it 0.7cm.

Now place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the side and sleeve seams together. Press the seam allowances open.

Next, we'll work on the hem band. Sew the side seams right sides together and the front center pieces right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

You fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side to wrong side, and iron the hem fold.

Now, with the waistband open (folding the fold back out), sew it to the jacket, right sides together, stretched. Only the small section at the center front remains smooth. Make sure to include the pocket pouches. The seam allowance is pressed into the jacket.

Next comes the collar. Iron it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and sew it right sides together into the neckline. Press the seam allowance into the jacket (if your fabric is very stiff, clip the neckline seam allowance). Make sure to leave a 1cm seam allowance on the front edge of the jacket for the zipper.

Before you sew in the zipper, secure the pocket bag in the front center with a stitch.

Now prepare the cuffs. Fold open the hem fold and sew the side seam, right sides together. Press the seam allowance open and fold the hem fold closed again.

Sew the cuff to the sleeve hem while stretching. If you can't stretch the cuff, pull over threads into the sleeve hem to accommodate the stretch.

Next comes the food:

On the back piece, at the center back, pin the pleats at the top and bottom. Then sew the back facing on, right sides together. The seam allowance is stitched down to the lining.

Do the same with the front pieces.

Now close the entire shoulder seam right sides together and iron the seam allowance open.

Now, pin the pleats in the lining sleeve and sew it, right sides together, into the armhole. Press the seam allowance into the shoulder.

Then place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the side and sleeve seams together. Press the seam allowances open.

Leave an opening of about 20cm in the side seam of the left lining sleeve, which you close after lining.

To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:

First, sew the front facing hem right sides together to the center front cuff and iron the seam open.

Now pin the lining to the neckline, right sides together, preferably from the "jacket side" so you stay on the already sewn line. You can also tuck the zipper in between the front edge.

You can use the zip foot on the front edge so you're not so far from the chain, or you can set the needle all the way to the left, but you'll have to put it back in the middle at the neckline.

The front edge is stitched 0.7cm from the right.

Now sew the lining sleeve hem to the cuff, right sides together (as with the collar, along the existing seam). Here, too, you can pull some tufting threads into the hem beforehand. Caution : "Twist hazard!" Watch the video, and everything will go smoothly.

After turning the sleeves right side out, turn the jacket inside out to stretch and sew the lining to the hem. Leave an opening of about 20 cm.

Turn the jacket right side out, and the left sleeve inside out. Now you can reach through the opening in the lining sleeve to the hem and pull it through the sleeve opening. Close the hem opening, turn the jacket right side out, and stitch the opening in the lining sleeve tightly closed.

Your DUBLIN is ready

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your pattern team