Sewing instructions Hoodie Emilea/Emil
Level : For experienced users
Emilea was sewn from sweatshirt fabric in this tutorial.
Materials needed:
We recommend a heavy jersey or sweatshirt fabric.
Emilea Hoodie:
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric with hood | 1.70 m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric without hood | 1.30 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric with hood | 2.10 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric without hood | 1.80 m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | cuffs | 0.10 m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | cord | 1.25 m | up to 2 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | Zipper for sleeve pocket | 1 piece | 12 cm long |
| Sizes 34-42 | Zipper for breast pocket | 1 piece | 12 cm long |
| Size 44-50 | Zipper for chest pocket | 1 piece | 13 cm long |
Emil Hoodie:
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric with hood | 2.00 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric without hood | 1.60 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 52-58 | Outer fabric with hood | 2.00 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 52-58 | Outer fabric without hood | 2.00 m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 44-58 | cuffs | 0.10 m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 44-58 | cord | 1.35 m | up to 2 cm wide |
| Sizes 44-58 | Zipper for sleeve pocket | 1 piece | 14 cm long |
| Size 44-50 | Zipper for breast pocket | 1 piece | 13 cm long |
| Size 52-58 | Zipper for breast pocket | 1 piece | 14 cm long |
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabrics . Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the back piece and back yoke on the fold. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side up and on the right side of the fabric—pay particular attention to this with the front piece and front yoke so the pocket is on the correct side, the left side of the body. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk , and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts are required for larger sizes. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point . Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
Option 1: Neckband
You will need the following fabric:
- 1x cuff on the fold
- 1x back piece in half
- 1x Back piece in half
- 2x underarm sleeves
- 2x Passe
- 2x upper sleeves (plus drill holes on the left side of the sleeve!)
- 1x neckband
- 2x cuffs
- 1x sleeve pocket 1
- 1x sleeve pocket 3
- 1x Pocket bag
- 1x sleeve pocket 2 (plus 1x drill hole)
- 1x Passe front part
- 1x VT (plus drill holes)
also with insert:
- Front zipper
Option 2: Hood
You will need the following fabric:
- 1x cuff on the fold
- 1x back piece in half
- 1x Back piece in half
- 2x underarm sleeves
- 2x Passe
- 2x upper sleeves (plus drill holes on the left side of the sleeve!)
- 2x Hood Middle
- 4x hood (plus 2x drill holes only on outer hood!)
- 2x arm cuffs
- 1x sleeve pocket 1
- 1x sleeve pocket 3
- 1x Pocket bag
- 1x sleeve pocket 2 (plus 1x drill hole)
- 1x Passe front part
- 1x VT (plus drill holes)
also with insert:
- 2x outer hood on the left side of the fabric at drill holes
- Front zipper on the left side of the fabric
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
To sew this hoodie you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. If you're using a domestic sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-step elastic stitch. Afterwards, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written instructions, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
For patterns in sizes 44 to 50, there is an extra bust dart.
The most complicated part first: So, let's start with the pocket on the left sleeve. We made the pocket from a different colored cotton fabric, in this case dark blue, because it's a bit thinner and therefore easier to work with.
Starting, you finish the opening edge of the top pocket (pocket 3), iron over the notches and topstitch close to the edge.
On the side to be topstitched, iron the seam allowance over and, orienting yourself towards the hole, stitch the pocket onto the lower pocket (pocket 2) close to the edge; to secure it, sew a triangle at the upper opening.
Now insert the zipper into your bag, using a special zipper foot. We used a continuous zipper, which also needs to be secured with a small piece of fabric at the bottom.
Now you can stitch the entire pocket onto your left sleeve close to the edge, using the markings in the pattern as a guide.
The upper and lower sleeves are now sewn together and the seam allowances finished. Make sure to sew the front dividing seam first, then fold the seam allowances upwards (towards the pocket) and topstitch them with a presser foot's width seam allowance.
Now you can close the back seam of the sleeve, neaten the seam allowances together, and press them flat. You make the second sleeve in the same way as the first, but without the pocket.
For the sleeve cuffs, we used the same fabric as the main fabric. However, you can also use ribbing. Sew the cuffs together, right sides facing, in a circle and press the seam allowances open. At the same time, press the cuffs in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing, and then insert them, right sides facing, into the sleeves. The cuff seam should align with the back sleeve seam. Finish the raw edges of the seam allowances together and press them upwards.
Now let's move on to the zippered pocket on the front: Sew the zipper to the front piece using a special foot, clipping the corners right up to the last stitch so that the seam allowances lie flat and the zipper looks neat. You can also check out the blog post by emilea.berlin for more information.
A seam all around, the width of a quilting foot, provides additional security for the seam allowance and the zipper.
You sew the front yoke to the previously prepared front piece, taking the notches into account.
Before sewing the pocket bag in place, the curved edges need to be finished. We used a template (without seam allowances) for the bag's topstitching, which makes it easy to sew along the curves. Simply place it on the right side of the zipper and stitch along the paper edge.
Now you finish the seam allowances of the yoke and the front piece, as well as the upper part of the pocket bag, iron the seam allowance upwards and secure it with a seam the width of a presser foot.
Now let's move on to the yoke, which is sewn to the back yoke, right sides together. Again, finish the seam allowances together, press them upwards, and topstitch them a presser foot's width away. Now sew the back yoke to the back piece, right sides together, finish the seam allowances together, press them upwards, and topstitch them a presser foot's width away.
Now sew all the pieces together, right sides facing, to the front piece. Always use the notches as a guide; they clearly indicate where the seams belong. Topstitch all marked seams with a seam allowance equal to a presser foot's width.
The front and back pieces are joined together by sewing them along the side seam, right sides together, to close the torso. Finish the seam allowances together and press them flat towards the back.
For the hem cuff, we used the same fabric as the main fabric. However, you can also use ribbing. Sew the cuff together, right sides facing, in a circular motion and press the seam allowances open. At the same time, press the cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing, and then attach it to the hem, right sides facing. Finish the raw edges of the seam allowances together and press them upwards.
Now you can almost finish the hoodie. Sew the sleeves to the body, right sides together (paying attention to the notches and seam lines), finish the seam allowances together, and press them flat. Now you just need to decide on a neckline style. We've sewn both for you to see.
Option 1: Neckband: Sew the neckband together, right sides facing, to form a circle and press the seam allowances open. At the same time, press the neckband, wrong sides facing, along the fold, and sew it into the neckline of the hoodie. The seam is located on the right shoulder. Again, pay attention to the notches marked on the pattern. Finish the raw edges of the seam allowances together and press them flat.
For your information: The length of the neckline band always depends on the elasticity of the ribbing fabric. This means that with very elastic ribbing, the band must be cut shorter.
Option 2: Hood: Assemble the hood from two outer pieces and one center piece, right sides together. Repeat this process twice. Press the seam allowances open. You have marked the buttonhole holes on the outer hood.
Sew your buttonholes for the drawstring exit (3 on the right side and 3 on the left) at the correct width. Now you can sew both hoods together.
Topstitch the drawstring casing 4cm from the turned edge. Now sew the hood to the neckline, right sides together. Make sure the notches are aligned correctly and that the hood overlaps by 2cm. Finish the seam allowances together and press them flat.
Finally, you thread in your cord.
Your EMILEA is finished!
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!