Sewing instructions for Ahlbeck trousers

The Ahlbeck women's trousers meet the current trend of body-hugging and casual.
These trousers, which are slim-fitting to the hips but flare out at the hem, are perfect for pairing with crop tops or short sweaters. For those who prefer longer tops, the Ahlbeck trousers pattern also offers a must-have pair of trousers, as the figure-hugging shape at the hips and bottom doesn't add bulk under a blouse or sweater.
The special highlight: the Ahlbeck trousers are sewn from stretchy, flowing fabric and therefore do not require a fastener .

→ To the “Ahlbeck” pattern

Level : medium - for experienced

Side length with waistband = 110 cm, hem width = 55-63 cm

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing, elastic fabric, e.g. Romanit, Two Way Stretch Wooltouch
If your fabric is not elastic enough, sew in a 25cm seam ripper on the left side.

Ahlbeck was sewn from Two Way Stretch in this tutorial.

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

You will need fabric:

• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x rear trousers opposite
• 2x inner pocket bag opposite
• 1x outer pocket bag in the break
• 2x rear pocket opposite
• 1x bundle in the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlocker. Alternatively, you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges. Since you'll be using a very stretchy fabric for this model, close the seams with a stretchy stitch or use a light zigzag setting.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start with the front pants.

Iron the crease and then stitch it close to the edge, then neaten the crotch seam and the inside leg seam

Now neaten the "slanted" edge of the inner pocket pouch. Then, place the "straight" edge, right sides together, on the pocket opening of the front trousers, turn them together, and topstitch the seam allowance on the pocket pouch.

Note: If you have a fabric that stretches in all directions, iron an interfacing into the pocket opening beforehand. In our example, the pocket opening is in the grain and therefore "straight" and non-stretchy.

Next, place the front pieces right sides together and sew the front crotch seam up to about 5 cm from the inside leg. Then press the seam allowance open.

Lay the outer pocket bag flat, right side up. Now place the front pants on top, also right side up, and pin them in place.

If you now fold up the front of the trousers, you'll see that the pockets are stacked on top of each other. Pin them together as well.

Now you can close the pockets and neaten them together.

You fix the pocket bags to the waist and side seam with a stitch, then neaten the side seam.

Now it's time to work on the back of the trousers. Finish the crotch seam, the inseam, and the side seam.

Then sew the darts.

After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the waist seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents to the center back.

Now it's time for the back pockets. Neaten the sides and bottom of the pockets and press them 1cm. Then fold the top edge under twice 1.5cm, press it, and topstitch it.

Next, place the pockets on the back of the trousers according to the cutting marks and stitch them on close to the edge.

Now place the back of the trousers right sides together and sew the back crotch seam up to about 5 cm from the inside leg. Then press the seam allowance open up to the crotch curve.

Now join the front trousers to the back trousers, right sides together. First, sew the side seam, press the seam allowance open, then baste the inseam. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and knee of the back trousers is slightly shorter than that of the front trousers. Stretch this distance slightly to make it fit. This cutting trick ensures the trousers fit better. Now, press the seam allowance open as well.

Make sure you connect the inside leg seam of the front trousers with the inside leg seam of the back trousers, otherwise you'll end up with a rather silly skirt...that's happened to me too ;-)

The crotch seam can now be closed. A tip for better hold: double-stitch the entire crotch seam.

Now the trouser hem is finished, ironed over 3cm and topstitched.

Almost there!

You iron the waistband in half along the fold line and close the center back with right sides together.

Now sew the waistband in place. Be sure to use an elastic stitch.

Then you can neaten the seam allowances together and iron them upwards.

Your AHLBECK is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.