Sewing instructions for chinos Bela

This trouser cut is the ideal alternative to jeans and adds another favorite piece to your wardrobe. The pants are cut rather narrow and have two side pockets. Combined with sneakers and the rolled-up hem, the modern look is perfect.

Length including waistband = 107 - 117 cm

In these instructions, Bela was sewn from a cotton corduroy fabric.

→ To the pattern “Bela”

Required material:

We recommend cotton or linen.

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.25 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 52-58

• Outer fabric 2.40 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-58

• Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
• Ripper 1 piece 15 cm long
• Buttons 4 pieces 16 mm diameter

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

If you want to make your Bela out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Bela out of checked fabric: In this video, Dagmar shows you how best to cut out checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front trousers in opposite directions
• 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
• 1x belt loops
• 2x pocket bags on the front inside in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bags at the front in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 4x flap at the back
• 2x understep in opposite directions
• 2x federal overstep in opposite directions
• 2x federal underlay in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Cut the underlap of the right front trousers shorter. Use the cutting edge marked in the pattern as a guide.

Begin your sewing work with the serger and neaten the strip for the belt loops all around, as well as on the front and rear trousers, the inner leg seam, the inseam in the front and back and the hem.

Now sew the darts in the back pants and iron them to the side seam. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the waistband seam nicely.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

It continues with the side pockets. In doing so, you overturn the pocket bag-front-inside with the front pants right sides together. The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the pocket bag, if it is not specially stitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the bag is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. After these steps have been done, the pocket opening is stitched close to the edge or the width of a stitching foot.

Now you can place the larger pocket bag right sides together under the front trousers and close both pocket bags with a seam all around and neaten everything together. Then the entire side seam of the front trousers is trimmed.

Sew the flap together with 1cm right sides together and then overturn it. Cut away the corners of the seam allowances so that the seam allowances do not become too thick when turning.

Neaten the upper open edge together and then iron it over 1cm. If the material is suitable, the flap can be provided with a decorative seam all around, close to the edge or as wide as a quilting foot.

Sew on a flap according to the marking on each hind pair of trousers, then sew on the flap just under the edge and with the width of your quilting foot.

Now we come to the processing of a zipper and the processing of underlays or also called laundry protection. Please note, however, that these are women's trousers and therefore the underlay is cut off on the left side of the body, while the men's underlay is on the right side of the body. The understeps are folded together and the seam allowances are slightly cut. Neaten the open edge together after turning over the underlay (see photo: right, long side).

Next, sew the front seat seam from the zipper end to just before the inseam. The following video shows you how to sew in the zipper.

For a clearer illustration, we have prepared a video of our women's trousers Alessia. You are welcome to view this here.

Next, the rear trousers and front trousers can be sewn together. For this, the side seams are sewn together right sides together and the seam allowances are ironed apart. Sew the inside leg seams and the bottom seam together, right sides together, in the center back at the waistband, the seam is left open a bit so that you can later create a waistband that is easy to change.

Fold in one long side of the belt loop strip 1cm and then the other side 1cm over it, topstitch both edges just under the edge. Cut the finished strip into six pieces of equal length.

Sew on the belt loops according to the markings on the pattern. The length of the belt loops should be at least 0.7 cm longer than the width of the waistband plus the seam allowance.

Now we come to the next step: processing the bundle.

To do this, fold both sections of the waistband together (top step and bottom step). The waistband is attached from the outside inwards, which means the inner seam allowance is ironed over by 0.8 cm.

Place the waistband with a 1cm seam allowance at the top edge of the pants.

Only now do we close the center back of the trousers and the waistband in one seam. This allows us to change the sizes due to the wide seam allowance.

Now the waistband is sewn from the outside in the shadow of the seam. The inner ironed seam allowance is also bordered and quilted.

Here, too, you can topstitch the waistband all around with a decorative seam, close to the edge or a stitching foot wide.

Now the belt loops can be folded over and sewn to the upper edge of the waistband.

Fold the hem in twice and stitch firmly.

Make a buttonhole in the flap and in the tip of the underflap of the waistband. Buttons are sewn on accordingly. Buttonholes are also sewn into the flaps at the back and the buttons sewn on accordingly.

Your BELA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.