Side length with waistband = 105 cm, hem width = 53-61cm
Required material:
We recommend you
Sizes 34-50 : Outer fabric 2.30m (140cm wide)
lining 0.40m (140cm wide)
insert 0.70m (90cm wide)
trouser zipper 1 x 17cm
Bund: 10 printers 1.5cm diameter
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!
Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle. The pattern pieces should all be laid out with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold of the fabric, as this is always the middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interlining roughly first. After you have secured the interlining, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric:
- 1x front trouser underlap with insert in the front center
- 1x front trouser upper leg with insert in the front center (the front trouser is cut together, then you cut off 2.5cm from the lower leg according to the cutting instructions)
- 2x side front trousers opposite
- 2x rear pants opposite
- 2x back pocket opposite
- 2x pocket receipt opposite
- 1x zipper cover
also with insert:
- 2x waistband front upper step opposite
- 2x waistband front underlap opposite
- 2x waistband at the back opposite
- 2x flaps at the back opposite
- 4x bar seam opposite
- 4x bar collar opposite
- 2x pocket slip inside opposite
from feed:
- 2x pocket bags opposite each other
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked
To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
If you use a seam zipper, you will also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
First, close the darts in the inner leg seam, both on the front and back of the trousers, and the waist darts in the back of the trousers.
and stitch all darts with coloured thread (red line) to the width of the foot.
the trousers, close the seam, neaten the seam allowance and iron it to the front. Now you can topstitch this seam as wide as the foot.
Next, you prepare the pocket bag. You neaten up the curve of the pocket bag facing and the long, straight side of the inside of the pocket facing. Then you stitch them onto the lining pocket bag, left to right, close to the edge.
Then place the pocket bag right sides together on the pocket opening of the front trousers and sew them together. The corner of the seam allowance must be cut, then iron the edge flat and stitch it down to the width of the foot.
Iron the pocket bag right sides together along the fold line, close it, neaten the seam allowance and secure it with a few auxiliary stitches at the waist and side seam.
Since we're in pocket mode, let's move on to the flap pocket on the back of the trousers.
The flaps are sewn together right sides together on the short side, corners are trimmed, the flap is turned, ironed and topstitched as usual. The upper open edge is neatened together.
The top edge of the bag is turned over at the sides (photo above) and finished all around (side and bottom). The edges are then ironed and the top edge is stitched 2cm wide.
The pockets are now stitched onto the back of the trousers with the edges facing up, then the flap is first placed upwards and stitched in place, then you iron it downwards and stitch the upper edge in place, the width of a foot.
Now the trouser legs can be put together. Place the front and back trousers right sides together and close the side seam. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed to the back. Then topstitch it down to the width of the foot.
Interlude:
Before the inner leg seam is closed, you can iron interfacing patches for the printer into the still open seam. Iron the seam at the same time.
Now close the inner leg seam right sides together and iron the seam allowance open. Don't be surprised that the distance between the buttocks and the knee of the back of the trousers is a little shorter than that of the front. Stretch this distance a little so that it fits. This cutting trick ensures that the trousers fit better.
You should now have two matching trouser legs.
Next, we tackle the hem: Stitch the pre-ironed hem
Now we prepare all the bars.
The bartacks are sewn together on the long and slanted sides, right sides facing each other, then the corners are trimmed and the bartack is turned over. The open side is neatened together and the bartack is stitched along the edges. You also fold in the printer head at the same time.
Stitch the hem bar on the short side (same principle as with the flap), then fold it towards the side seam and stitch it down. Fold the printer bottom parts into the hem according to the cutting markings.
Next, the crotch seam is closed from the planned zipper end to the center back. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, then tuck this trouser leg into the other one that is not turned, so that the crotch seam lies nice and straight on top of each other and you can sew them together easily. Make sure that the inner leg seams lie exactly on top of each other. Feel free to stitch this seam twice. Iron the center back apart from the waist to the notch.
In the front centre, iron the upper and lower flaps according to the cutting marks.
Now you prepare everything for the zipper. You take the zipper facing, fold it lengthways right sides together and turn the bottom edge. Then you turn it right side out and neaten the long side. Next you sew the zipper flush onto the facing. Use a zipper foot so that the distance to the rail is perfect.
We have a video for you here about zipper processing:
The ironed underlap is stitched to the zipper side with the facing.
Close the zipper, lay the trousers flat in front of you, pin the front center and fold the flap side to the right. The flap facing covers the zipper.
You attach the upper step to the zipper, but fold the zipper facing to the side.
Now you can sew the zipper in place.
Now stitch the decorative seam (here a double stitching line) and secure the overlap while the zipper facing is folded away. Fasten just before the underlap begins.
Then lay the trousers flat in front of you with the zipper closed and "complete" the decorative seam. Now you have to include the flap. You can make a zigzag bartack at the front center and at the transition to the curve.
Next we go with the cuff.
You close the side seams of the inner and outer waistband right sides together, iron the seam allowances apart and neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.
Now sew the inner and outer waistband together. Cut the seam allowance in the curve and cut off the corners.
Now sew the outer waistband right sides together to the pants.
The seam allowance is ironed into the waistband and the waistband is stitched all around.
You've almost done it. Stitch the prepared bars onto the waistband according to the cutting markings and fold the counterparts into the waistband for the printer.
Finally, the printers are punched into the front center of the waistband,
your CANTERBURY is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your sewing pattern team
