Sewing instructions for Floria trousers

August 4, 2025

Level: Professional

Side length including waistband = 108 cm, hem width = 54-62 cm

Materials needed:

We recommend lightweight cotton fabrics and linen.

Sizes 34-42 : Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)

44-50 : Outer fabric 2.70m (140cm wide)

Insert 0.70m (90cm wide)

Trouser zipper 1 x 10cm

3 buttons at waistband, 2 buttons at pocket, 1.5cm diameter

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

1x front trouser underlap with insert in the front center
1x front trouser facing with insert in the front center (the front trouser is cut together, then you cut off 2.5cm at the underlap according to the cutting instructions)
2x outer pocket bags, opposite each other
2x inner pocket bags with opposing elastic bands
1x Zippered slip
4x opposite panels, 2 of which have inserts

2x back pants, mirror images
2x rear pockets, opposite each other
1x binding tape
1x strip for belt loops

also with insert:

2x front band, top overlap, opposite
2x front gusset, opposite
2x back waistband, mirrored

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start with the pockets in the front of the pants:

Finish the raw edge of the inner pocket lining along the short slant, then sew it to the pocket opening, right sides together. In our model, the pocket opening is topstitched twice, 0.2 and 0.7 cm from the edge.

Place the outer pocket bag on the table with the right side of the fabric facing up, and then place the front of the trousers on top, aligning the pattern markings. The pocket bags are now flush and can be sewn together. Finish the seam allowance together. Then, secure the pocket bags to the waistband with a basting stitch.

Now, finish the edges of ALL trouser legs all the way around (except for the waist edge and hem)...and while you're at it, also finish the back pocket on the sides and bottom, as well as the strip for the belt loops on one long side.

Next, we'll work on the back of the trousers. Grab the pockets and iron over the top edge by 1 cm and then 2 cm. Now, fold this over to the right side of the fabric and sew the corner closed. Then turn it right side out again and topstitch the top edge of the pocket.

The side edges and the bottom of the pocket are ironed over by 1cm and stitched onto the back of the trousers according to the cutting instructions. Here again I have chosen the double stitch.

Great! The back and front trousers are finished enough to be sewn together.

Place the back and front pant pieces right sides together and sew the inseam and side seams. Press the seam allowances open. You should now have a right and a left pant leg.

Next, close the crotch seam from the planned zipper end to the center back. To do this, turn one pant leg right side out and insert it into the other, unturned pant leg. This will ensure the crotch seam lies perfectly straight, making it easy to sew. Make sure the inseams are aligned. Double-stitch this seam. Press the center back seam open from the waist to the notch.

Before you get to the zipper, iron the hem seam allowance over twice by 2.5cm and topstitch it.

In the front center, iron the underlap and overlap according to the cutting line.

Now you prepare everything for the zipper. Take the zipper facing, fold it lengthwise right sides together, and sew the bottom edge to the inside. Then turn it right side out and finish the long edge. Next, sew the zipper tape flush with the facing. Use a zipper foot to ensure perfect spacing from the zipper track.

We have a video for you here on how to work with zippers:

The ironed-over underlap is stitched to the zipper side with the facing.

Close the zipper, lay the trousers flat in front of you, pin the center front, and fold the facing to the right. The facing of the fly will cover the zipper.

You attach the top edge to the ripper, but fold the ripper tab to the side.

Now you can stitch the ripper in place.

Now, topstitch the decorative seam and secure the overlap while the facing is folded away. Secure the seam just before the underlap begins.

Then you lay the trousers flat in front of you with the zipper closed and "complete" the decorative seam; now the underlap must be included.

Next, we'll work on the waistband: Take the front outer waistband (underlap and overlap) and punch the buttonholes for the tunnel opening.

Then you sew the side seams of the inner and outer waistband right sides together, iron the seam allowances open and finish the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

Now you sew the inner and outer waistbands together, clip the seam allowance at the curve, and trim the corners. Now you can turn it right side out and press it flat.

Before the waistband is sewn onto the trousers, we do some preparatory work:

You turn the flaps right side out together, trim the corners, and topstitch all the way around, except for the top edge. Now you also make the buttonholes.

Now you make the belt loops. Finish one long edge, fold over the unfinished edge, and then fold the finished edge over it. Next, topstitch close to the edge on both sides and divide the loops into 8 equal parts.