SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TROUSERS “NURU”

Fashion likes to change its silhouettes and proportions, which is why pants sit more at the waist and have a wider leg. The pattern of the Nuru trousers is very trendy, the flared hem is somewhat reminiscent of the flared trousers of the 70s. What's special about Nuru are the dividing seams that run from the back yoke over the side seam into the hem of the front leg. The trousers are nice and narrow up to the hips and then widen towards the hem. The slanted pockets and the double stitching on the seams make it look very sporty.

Hem width = 54 – 62 cm

Side length without waistband = 105 cm

→ To the sewing pattern “Nuru”

In these instructions, Nuru was sewn from a trouser fabric with 3% elastane.

Required material:

We recommend a fabric made of fine corduroy, jeans or a wool fabric.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	1.70 m	140cm wide
	feed	0.25m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.50 m	90cm wide
	Forming tape	1.50 m	12mm wide
	zipper	1x	12cm long
	Button	1x	1.6cm diameter

Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	2.10 m	140cm wide
	feed	0.25m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.50 m	90cm wide
	Forming tape	1.50 m	12mm wide
	zipper	1x	13cm long
	Button	1x	1.6cm diameter

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvages parallel to the center so that you can place the waistband at the back of the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 2x rear pants opposite
• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x saddles in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bags-1 opposite
• 1x underpass
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x waistband at the back in the break
• 2x federal top step opposite
• 2x federal undercut opposite
• 1x front trousers on the top of the right side of the body

You need from food:

• 2x pocket bags-2 opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

If you are sewing in a zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

There is also a video about the pocket processing of the Nuru pants here.

(Note: the photo is of the Benedikte jeans!) After the insert has been attached to the left side of the fabric on the right side of the body, it must now also be cut back along the raw edge of the underlay on the left side of the body. There is also a cut edge under the pocket bag and the inside pocket bag on the right side of the body.

So that the width of your pocket opening does not expand, we recommend that you reinforce the opening with a 12mm wide shaping band.

We continue with the pockets. To do this , place the finished pocket bag-1 on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, on the pocket opening edge of the front trousers and sew them together with 1cm.

To get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron the seam allowance apart and then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with 0.2cm and 0.7cm quilting foot width and just under the edge.

The pocket bag-2 made of lining is placed on the saddle, right sides together, stitched with 1cm and the seam allowances are neatened together. The seam allowance is ironed towards the center back.

Now take the pocket bag-2 and place it right sides together on the previously collapsed pocket bag-1. Sew the bags together along the curve and finish the seam allowances together. Close the seam only up to the mark in the pattern (see yellow line).

Place an auxiliary seam of 0.5cm so that the pocket is held correctly and can be included later when processing the waistband.

Now the back and front pants can be sewn together. To do this, place the cut back pants and the prepared front pants with saddle together, right sides together, and stitch everything through with 1cm. The seam allowances are then neatened together and ironed to the back. Pay attention to the clips marked in the cut.

The seam allowance is stitched twice onto the back of the trousers, once with a 0.2cm narrow edge and 0.7cm quilting foot wide.

Now the right leg is prepared so that it can be finished all around in one go before continuing with the zipper processing . Make sure that the tops of both front pants are different lengths. The hem is ironed at the clips when open. This is easier for later processing.

The inside leg seams are sewn together at 1.5cm . Don't be surprised that the distance between the buttocks and the knee on the back pants is slightly shorter than on the front pants. Stretch this section a little so that it fits. This cutting trick ensures that the pants fit better. The neatened seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem is folded over at the previously ironed edge and stitched through.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other one that is not turned, so that the crotch seam is nice and straight on top of each other and you can easily sew them together up to 1cm above the lower edge of the top flap. Make sure that the yoke seams in the center back are sewn together at exactly the same height, and that the inside leg seams are exactly on top of each other. The neatened seam allowances are ironed apart at the center back about 10-15 cm apart.

There is also a video here about zipper processing in which we explain step by step how a trouser zipper is sewn in. Have lots of fun with it!

Continue with the facing of the underlay, place it inside out and sew it together along the long and lower edges.

Now grab your zipper and the underlay. Sew the opened zipper onto the underlay. Do not stitch too close to the ripper rail so that the slider doesn't get stuck later.

Iron the underlay according to Knips and sew the zipper with facing under the left side of the pants. Use a ripper foot to make processing easier.

Iron the top flap according to the snap, then lay the pants neatly in front of you so that the top flap covers the zipper and pin the top flap to the zipper with a pin. Open the zipper and then fold the underflap sewn to the zipper to the side. At 2.5cm and 3cm next to the break in the center front, sew the zipper through the ironed top flap.

As soon as the zipper is attached to both sides, the typical front trouser stitching and simultaneous attachment of the ironed top flap are carried out. Make it easier for yourself by using a quilting template. Start at the top edge and open and stitch the topstitching through 10-11cm, then stop and lock there.

Now the underlay can be folded back under the closed zipper and, depending on the design, in an arch or diagonally towards the center front. It is stitched through the top flap, zipper and bottom flap on the corner of the crotch seam and secured at the crotch seam.

Start by preparing the belt loops: Finish one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops. Then iron the unfinished cut edge 1cm left to left and then fold the finished edge over it by 1cm. Iron everything flat.

Finally, stitch 0.2cm wide along each long side.

Cut the strip into (5 – depending on the cut size) equal-sized belt loops. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Dimensions of the cuff: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (per loop)

Stitch the loops at the markings in the pattern (2 VH, 2 HH, + 1 in the HM) onto the trousers, right sides together.

We continue with the federal government. To do this, sew each of the three waistband parts together at the side seams. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

To prevent the width of your waistband from expanding, we recommend that you reinforce the upper edge of the inner waistband with a 12mm wide shaping band in addition to the insert. The tape is also available from Vlieseline https://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Baender/Formband .

Place the inner and outer waistbands together, right sides together, and sew them together along the double-reinforced top edges. To create a flat top edge, you can iron the seam allowances apart. Then iron the waistband flat.

Neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

This means you can attach the finished waistband to the trousers, right sides together. The seam allowance is then ironed into the waistband.

After sewing on, also close the short ends of the waistband. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened, cut or cut off with scissors. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting. The corners don't get too thick when turned and the seam allowances lay nice and flat.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then stitch the edge through the waistband all around. Fold in the belt loops 1cm along the top edge and at the same time secure them to the top edge of the waistband through the stitching seam.

Then lay the belt loops straight and secure them at the bottom edge (under the waistband).

Finished stitched waistband.

Finally, the buttonhole is made on the right side of the body and the matching button is sewn on.

Your NURU is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.