SEWING INSTRUCTIONS CUNT SKIRT “THERESA”

Fashion details repeat themselves over the decades, including the culottes model. Wedding in the 70s, the fusion of trousers and skirt is more popular than ever. The slightly recessed waistband and a side seam tear underline the figure-hugging trouser area and then fall in a bell shape from the hips to the hem. Theresa offers two leg lengths, with the hem ending at calf level and the shorter version just below the knee. With the help of the lines drawn, the knee-length trouser skirt can also be created quickly.

→ To the pattern “Theresa”

Inside leg length = 83 – 85 cm

In these instructions, Theresa was sewn from a soft, draping viscose woven fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric, such as a viscose/polyester blend , a wool georgette or Tencel.

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	2.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Lining fabric	0.30m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.60 m	90cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Seam ripper	1 piece	22cm long

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the waistband at the front and back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x rear pants opposite
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x pocket receipts in opposite directions
• 2x waistband in front of the break
• 2x waistband at the back in the break

also with form band:

• 1x inner waistband at the front
• 1x inner waistband at the back

You need lining material:

• 2x pocket bags - inside opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start by working on the pockets in the front pants. To do this, neaten the pocket facings on the long edge.

Now place the prepared pocket facings, left sides together, on the inside of the pocket bag made of lining material and sew them all around.

Now place the finished pocket bags on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, of the front trousers and sew them together with 1cm.

If you don't want to topstitch the edge, the seam allowances can be stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam on the pocket opening.

To get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron the seam allowance apart and only then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with 0.5cm of quilting foot width.

Now take the large pocket bag made of outer fabric and place it, right sides together, on top of the previously collapsed pocket bag. Sew the bags together along the curve and finish the seam allowances together.

Place an auxiliary seam of 0.5cm on the waist so that the side pocket is held properly and can be included later when processing the waistband. Your pocket is ready.

We continue with sewing off the back trouser darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little off and the waist seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the contents of the dart towards the center back.

Finish the hems of the trouser legs individually and...

... iron them according to the cut.

Before the seam ripper can be sewn in, reinforce the areas on the front and back of the pants on the left side of your body with an extra insert.

Finish the seam allowances of all side seams individually.

Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seam of the front and back pants with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Note that the side seam on the left side of the body is only closed up to the snap. Work on both legs and…

... then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inside leg seams are sewn together with 1cm right sides together . Don't be surprised that the distance between the buttocks and the knee on the back pants is slightly shorter than on the front pants. Stretch this section a little so that it fits. This cutting trick ensures that the pants fit better. Iron the seam allowances that have been neatened together to the back.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, insert this trouser leg into the other one that is not turned, so that the crotch seam is nice and straight on top of each other and you can sew them together easily. Make sure that the inside leg seams line up exactly. Feel free to double stitch this seam. Iron the seam allowances that have been neatened together for the first 5-10cm towards the right side of the body.

You can now fold the pre-ironed hem up and secure it with a seam all around.

Start by preparing the belt loops: Finish one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops.

Then iron the raw edge, left sides together, and then fold the finished edge over it. Iron everything flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed belt loop.

Finally, stitch a 0.2cm edge along each long side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the quilted belt loop.

Cut the strip into 6 belt loops of the same size, depending on the cut details. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Dimensions of the cuff: 4cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 7cm (per loop)

Stitch the loops to your pants at the markings in the pattern (2x VH, 4x HH), right sides together.

We continue with the federal government. To do this, sew a back waistband together with a front waistband, right sides together, at the right side seam. Iron the seam allowances apart. To ensure that the width of your waistband does not expand, the upper edge of the inner waistband is reinforced with a 12mm wide shaping band in addition to the insert. The tape is also available from Vlieseline https://www.vlieseline.com/Products/Baender/Formband.

Neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

Place the inner and outer waistbands on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together at the double-reinforced top edge, but don't sew all the way to the end, as you'll still need some slack to process the seam ripper later. Note that the outer waistband is intentionally larger than the inner waistband and therefore protrudes.

Place the seam allowance towards the inside waistband and stitch the edge flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the inner waistband, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the inner waistband is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat-stitched inner waistband.

Then turn the waistband inside out and iron it flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat ironed waistband.

Now you can attach the finished waistband to the pants with the outer edge, right sides together, and stitch it in place until the end. The seam allowance is then ironed into the waistband.

There are several variations of a zipper foot. This is one of them.

The seam ripper is then inserted into the side seam on the front and back up to the top edge of the waistband. Note the 1.5cm seam allowance.

Here you can see a detailed view of a closed seam zipper.

The waistband is placed on top of each other, right sides together, and the inner waistband is sewn to the seam allowances of the zipper.

Now close the top edge of the waistband completely.

You can also secure the zipper ends at the seam allowances on the side seam.

Now you stitch the waistband all the way around the width of a quilting foot and thus attach the inner waistband. You can also secure the belt loops on the pants with a seam.

The belt loops are folded over 1cm and secured to the outer waistband.

Your THERESA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.