If you are looking for a great jacket cut for the transitional period between autumn and winter, we recommend the Nadja jacket pattern. Nadja is not particularly difficult to work with as it only has seam pockets and no buttonholes. The light A-silhouette allows for different combinations in a variety of ways, e.g. B. over a dress , but also with wide trousers such as Nuru or Anke . The style is very puristic, only with a chest dart in the front and the high stand-up collar does the jacket look clean. So that even those who are not very experienced can process this cut, we have chosen the closure solution with printers that can be sewn on by hand.
Length at center back = 57-65 cm.
In these instructions, Nadja was sewn from faux fur. This cannot be glued on, otherwise the hair will be ironed flat, so we will show you how to process it without inserts. However, we will describe to you the individual work steps where and when the insert is normally used.
Required material:
We recommend wool, boucle or faux fur.
| Sizes 34-40 | Outer fabric | 1.50 m | 140cm wide |
| feed | 1.25m | 140cm wide | |
| inlay | 1.45m | 90cm wide | |
| Sizes 42-50 | Outer fabric | 2.05m | 140cm wide |
| feed | 1.45m | 140cm wide | |
| inlay | 1.70 m | 90cm wide | |
| Sizes 34-50 | Thin raglan padding | 1 | Couple |
| Snaps | 5 | 2.2cm diameter |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvages parallel to the middle so that you can place the back piece, collar, back facing and back F in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here.
What you need from fabric:
- 2x front part opposite
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x undersleeves in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bag receipt opposite
also with insert (except faux fur):
- 2x plaque front part see photo
- 2x collar in break
- 1x receipt at the back of the break
- 2x receipts on the front opposite each other
You need from food:
- 1x back part-F in the break
- 2x front part-F opposite
- 2x upper sleeve F opposite
- 2x undersleeve F opposite
- 4x pocket bags in opposite directions
Sewing instructions:
To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing! 
According to the pattern, the side seams and shoulders are sewn right sides together and then ironed to the back. 
The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve, right sides together... 
... and the inner arm seam is also closed. 
However, an opening of approx. 20cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. 
Both lining sleeves are turned to the right side and inserted into the previously prepared torso. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. 
The pocket bag facings are neatened at the bottom edge. 
And then sewn to the two back pocket bags. This prevents the lining from being visible when the bag pops open. 
The upper sleeve is sewn together with the matching lower sleeve, right sides together... 
... and the inner arm seam is also closed. 
Since we chose faux fur for our Nadja, we couldn't add inserts to the outer fabric. So that the fabric in the shoulder area doesn't stretch out, we cut the plaque in the front part from the lining and fixed it to the width of a quilting foot. 
The outer collar also has a specially tailored lining (instead of an insert) so that it cannot stretch out at the seams. 
This can then be collapsed all around with the inner collar. Slightly nip the seam allowances in the curves and cut the corners: 
Stitch the two open edges congruently so that they don't slip when sewing on. 
The pocket bags made of lining fabric are sewn right sides together to the front part according to the markings in the cut. 
The pocket bags with the stitched pocket bag facing are sewn right sides together to the back part according to the markings in the cut. 
Now the pocket bags can be sewn together with 1cm all around. 
Next, sew the sleeves into your jacket. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. 
The prepared collar is sewn into the neck hole with the upper collar facing upwards. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. 
Now the front facings are sewn together with the back facing. The seam allowances are separated (do not iron, as there is fur). 
We have stitched a forming band into the neck hole (usually ironed), this secures the stretch and prevents stretching. We also provided the lower edge of the hem with a shaping band for stability. 
A hanging strap, made from lining, is pinned between the facing and the jacket in the middle back. Now the facing can be sewn all the way around the jacket, right sides together. 
Then you need the shoulder pads: The raglan pad is cut to the length of the shoulder and stitched in the middle from the inside on one of the two seam allowances so that the pad does not wobble back and forth. Check the correct position of the cushion. 
Now comes the food. Place the lining in your jacket the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric. Now sew the lining along the edges of the facing, starting at the hem on one side and sewing through in one piece to the other end. 
To ensure more support on the sleeve hem, you can attach it with a blind stitch. Then sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, we first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining to the hem with a needle. Only then do we pull out the sleeve and lay the rest. The seam allowances under the armhole of the lining and fabric are held together with a bar. 
To guarantee more hold on the jacket hem, you can also attach it with a blind stitch. Now you can close the hem by leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire jacket through the armhole. You sew the remaining piece of hem closed by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the still open hem to sew it up. 
Now all you have to do is sew the armhole in the lining close to the edge and your jacket is finished sewing. 
Finally there are the five snap fasteners as shown in the cut. Visible on the left side of the body… 
... invisible on the right side of the body. If you used faux fur, you should comb out the hair along the stitching lines. This is how your seams disappear. This is best done with a coarse bristle brush or a fine comb.
Your NADJA is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.
