The next favorite part – the Isa trousers pattern is a great new trouser shape. It looks great in a pair of jeans and in a cotton fabric. The dropped crotch and slim leg shape make these pants incredibly casual. You should have some sewing experience and own a sewing machine with a buttonhole function.
Side length = 98 cm
In these instructions, Isa was sewn from a denim fabric.
Required material:
| Size 34-42 | Outer fabric | 1.50 m | 140cm wide |
| feed | 0.30cm | 140cm wide | |
| inlay | 0.35m | 90cm wide | |
| Buttons | 4x | 1.7cm diameter | |
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric | 2.10 m | 140cm wide |
| feed | 0.30cm | 140cm wide | |
| inlay | 0.40m | 90cm wide | |
| Buttons | 4x | 1.7cm diameter |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
What you need from fabric:
- 2x front trousers legs opposite
- 2x front trousers opposite
- 2x rear pants opposite
- 2x back yokes in opposite directions
- 2x rear pockets in opposite directions
- 1x coin bag
- 2x pocket receipts in opposite directions
- 2x receipt strips opposite each other
- 1x belt loop strip
also with insert:
- 2x front center facing opposite
- 4x fret opposite
You need from food:
- 2x pocket bags made from lining
also with form band:
- 2x pocket receipts
Sewing instructions:
To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing! 
Place the two front pieces of trousers on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together at the dividing seam. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed down. 
If necessary, topstitch the seam allowance with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once as wide as a quilting foot. 
Now you have to prepare the patch pockets for the back part. To do this, fold the top pocket opening at 3cm 1x, right sides together, downwards. Fold this seam allowance back up in half (at 1.5cm) to create a kind of accordion.
Now secure the folded seam allowance with 1cm and then turn it to the left, if necessary trimming the seam allowance first. Always work out the corners nicely. 
Iron the seam allowance of the back pocket 1cm all around. Make sure that the pockets are evenly matched. 
Next, stitch the pocket openings with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once as wide as a quilting foot. 
Pin the pockets, left sides together, onto the back pants according to the markings in the pattern and stitch them all around with just an edge and stitching foot width. 
We continue with the yokes, which you sew, right sides together, onto the back pants. Finish the seam allowances together and then iron them upwards. If necessary, you can topstitch the seam again with contrasting thread, once just at the edge and once as wide as a quilting foot. It's best to do this from the right side of the fabric. 
Put the back pants aside and pick up the coin pocket. Neaten the cut edge at the working edge and press the seam allowance inwards. The intervention is stitched with contrasting thread with a narrow edge and quilting foot width. You also iron the side seam allowances to the inside. 
Now sew the finished bag onto the pocket facing, left sides together, on the right side of your body. Pay attention to the marking in the cut. 
Clean up the pocket facings on the lower cut edge... 
... and place them on the right side of the food pocket bags. Stitch the facings in place with a stitching foot-width seam all around. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. 
Now place the bags, right sides together, on the front trousers and sew them together at the pocket opening edge. 
Then fold the pocket bag, left sides together, onto the left side of the trouser leg and iron the edge of the pocket opening. 
Finally, use contrasting thread to topstitch the edge just short of the width of the quilting foot. 
Fold the pocket bag, right sides together (see clips) and secure it at the waist with 0.5cm. Sew the bag together along the bottom edge, neaten the seam allowances and iron it flat. Then secure the pocket on the side seam with a stitching foot width seam and your pocket is sewn in. 
Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seam, finish it together and press the seam allowance back. 
The side seam is stitched with contrasting thread close to the edge and quilting foot wide on the seam allowance. 
Sew the inside leg seams together, right sides together. Don't be surprised that the distance between the buttocks and the knee on the back pants is slightly shorter than on the front pants. Stretch the back pants slightly to fit the front pants. This cutting trick ensures that the pants fit better. Finish the seam allowances back together and press them backwards. 
Next you can close the butt seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other, so that the seat seam is nice and straight on top of each other and you can easily sew them together up to the button placket. Finish the seam allowance together and iron it towards the right side of the body. 
Neaten the facings of the center front along the long and lower edges and then pin them, right sides together, onto the top and bottom of the front trousers. Sew this onto the unfinished, longer edge and the short slant at 1cm wide, sewing exactly up to the crotch seam. Cut the corners, clip the front trousers at the corner (crotch seam/top or bottom), turn the facings right side out, work out the corners nicely and iron in the edge. 
Then you stitch the understitch (left side of the body) on the long edge with contrasting thread just under the edge and the top stitch on the long edge just under the edge and quilting foot wide, but DO NOT stitch the understitch in place. Make the 3 buttonholes according to the pattern and cut them. Secure the top and bottom of the waistband with stitching at approx. 0.5cm. 
Place the top leg (right half of the body) over the bottom leg (the crotch seam is towards the right half of the body). Now also stitch the lower slope of the top step through the top and bottom steps.
Next, stitch the edge of the seat seam with contrasting thread. 
Now come the belt loops. To do this, neaten the long strip on one side. Fold in the raw edge 1cm, left sides together, fold the finished edge 1cm over and iron everything flat. 
Stitch the edge of the strip on both sides with contrasting thread. 
Now you have to cut the long strip into 5 short strips. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:
- Dimensions of the cuff: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (per loop)
The loops are stitched to the trousers at the markings in the pattern (2 VH, 2 HH, +1 in the HM), right sides together. 
The inner and outer waistbands are sewn together in the center back and the side seam, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart. Then sew the top edge of the waistband together, right sides together, and topstitch the outer waistband at 1cm with an auxiliary seam. 
Iron the upper edge of the waistband edgewise and sew the short side together, right sides together. 
Sew the inner waistband, right sides together, to the inside of your prepared trousers and iron the seam allowance into the waistband. 
Press the seam allowance of the outer waistband inwards at the auxiliary seam and pin it in place. Then stitch the waistband once in a circle with contrasting thread, just around the edge from the outside. Now you still need a buttonhole, which you work into the waistband according to the cut. 
Now fold in the belt eyelets by approx. 0.5cm and fasten them close to the top edge of the waistband. 
Finally, just fold the hems in and out twice by 1.5cm, iron them and topstitch them with contrasting thread. Of course, sew on the 4 buttons according to the buttonhole position.
Your ISA is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen. 
