Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be laid out with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric:
- 2x front trousers legs opposite
- 2x front trousers opposite
- 2x rear pants opposite
- 2x rear yokes opposite
- 2x rear pocket opposite
- 1x coin pocket
- 2x pocket receipts opposite
- 2x receipt strips opposite
- 1x belt loop strip
also with insert:
- 2x front center facing opposite
- 4x waistband opposite
You will need from food:
- 2x pocket bags made of lining
also with forming tape:
- 2x pocket receipts
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Place the two trouser front pieces, right sides together, and sew them together along the dividing seam. Finish the seam allowances together and press them down.
If necessary, topstitch the seam allowance with contrasting thread once close to the edge and once across the width of the stitching foot.
Now you need to prepare the patch pockets for the back piece. To do this, fold the top pocket opening down once at 3cm, right sides together. Fold this seam allowance back up in half (at 1.5cm), creating a sort of accordion.
Now secure the folded seam allowance by 1 cm and turn it inside out, trimming the seam allowance first if necessary. Always finish the corners nicely.
Iron the seam allowance of the back pocket 1cm all the way around. Make sure the pockets are aligned.
Next, topstitch the pocket openings with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once as wide as the stitching foot. 
Pin the pockets, wrong sides together, onto the back of the trousers according to the markings in the pattern and stitch them all the way around, close to the edge and using the width of the stitching foot.
Next, sew the yokes, right sides together, to the back of the trousers. Neaten the seam allowances together and then press them upwards. If necessary, topstitch the seam again with contrasting thread, once close to the edge and once at the width of the stitching foot. This is best done from the right side of the fabric.
Set the back of the trousers aside and take the coin pocket. Neaten the raw edge of the opening and press the seam allowance inward. Stitch the opening with contrasting thread, close to the edge and using the width of the stitching foot. Also press the side seam allowances inward.
Now sew the finished bag onto the pocket facing, wrong sides together, on the right side of your body. Note the markings on the pattern.
Neaten the pocket facings at the bottom cut edge…
...and place them on the right side of the lining pocket bags. Stitch the facings all the way around with a stitch the width of your stitching foot. Note the notches in the pattern.
Now place the bags, right sides together, on the front of the trousers and sew them together at the pocket opening edge.
Then, with the wrong sides together, fold the pocket pouch onto the left side of the trouser leg and press the pocket opening to the edge.
Finally, topstitch with contrasting yarn close to the edge and to the width of the stitching foot.
Fold the pocket bag, right sides together (see notch), and secure it at the waist with a 0.5cm seam allowance. Sew the bag together along the bottom edge, neaten the seam allowances, and iron it flat. Then secure the pocket at the side seam with a stitch the width of a topstitcher, and your pocket is sewn in.
Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seam, neaten it, and press the seam allowance to the back.
The side seam is stitched with contrasting thread close to the edge and to the width of the stitching foot on the seam allowance.
Sew the inseams together, right sides together. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and the knee of the back trousers is slightly shorter than that of the front trousers. Stretch the back trousers slightly to fit the front trousers. This cutting trick ensures a better fit. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them back.
Next, you can close the seat seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out and tuck it into the other leg. This way, the seat seams line up nicely and you can easily sew them together up to the button placket. Neaten the seam allowance and press it to the right side of your body.
Neaten the long and bottom edges of the center front facings and then pin them, right sides together, to the upper and lower flaps of the front trousers. Sew these to the unneeded, longer edge and the shorter bias at a width of 1 cm, sewing exactly up to the crotch seam. Trim the corners, notch the front trousers at the corner (crotch seam/upper or lower flap), turn the facings right side out, trim the corners, and press them to the edge.
Then, topstitch the underlap (left side of the body) along the long edge with contrasting thread, close to the edge, and the top flap along the long edge, close to the edge and to the width of the stitching foot. DO NOT topstitch the underlap. Make and cut the three buttonholes according to the pattern. Secure the top and underlap to the waistband by stitching at approximately 0.5 cm.
Place the upper leg (right side of the body) over the lower leg (the crotch seam's NE seam is on the right side of the body). Now stitch the lower slant of the upper leg through the upper and lower leg.
Next, topstitch the seat seam close to the edge with contrasting thread.
Now it's time for the belt loops. To do this, neaten the long strip on one side. Fold the raw edge under 1cm, wrong side together, fold the neatened edge over 1cm, and iron everything flat.
Stitch the stripe on both sides close to the edge with contrasting thread.
Now you need to cut the long strip into 5 short strips. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:
- Cuff dimensions: 3.5cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 6.5cm (per loop)
The loops are stitched to the trousers at the markings in the pattern (2 front stitches, 2 back stitches, +1 in the back stitch), right sides together.
Sew the inner and outer waistbands together at the center back and side seam, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open. Then, sew the top edge of the waistband together, right sides together, and topstitch the outer waistband at 1cm with a stitch.
Iron the top waistband edge and sew the short side together, right sides together.
Sew the inner waistband, right sides together, to the inside of your prepared trousers and iron the seam allowance into the waistband.
Press the seam allowance of the outer waistband inward along the auxiliary seam and pin it in place. Then, using contrasting thread, stitch the waistband once in a circle from the outside, close to the edge. Now you're left with a buttonhole, which you'll work into the waistband according to the pattern.
Now fold in the belt eyelets about 0.5cm and bolt them close to the top edge of the waistband.
Finally, simply fold the hems twice 1.5cm in and over, iron, and topstitch with contrasting thread. Of course, sew on the four buttons according to the buttonhole positions.
Your ISA is ready !
If you are stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
