Sewing instructions for the Athina dress

Athena is a Dress For a grand entrance. With its wide sleeves, high side slits, and broad tie belt, it draws inspiration from Greece to Japan. The neckline and armholes are finished with facings. The comfortable fit eliminates the need for a zipper.

Length at back center = 132-134 cm.

In this tutorial, Athina was sewn from a viscose fabric.

→ To the sewing pattern “Athina”

Just so you know in advance:

Materials needed:

We recommend a light cotton, viscose or silk fabric.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 3.00m (140cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3.40m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
• Forming strip 0.90 m 12 mm wide

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges so you can place the front piece on the fold and the back piece with the seam. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video on our YouTube channel about this.

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 2x back piece, mirror image
• 2x sleeves, mirrored
• 2 x sleeve hem facings, mirror image
• 1x receipt at the front of the break
• 1x receipt at the back of the break
• 2x belt straps, opposite each other
• 1x middle belt section, cut at an angle

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the back of the break
• 1x receipt at the front of the break

also with shaping tape:

• Neck hole - facings front and back

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

First, close the center back seam, finish the raw edges, and press the seam to one side.

The front bust dart also needs to be worked. A simple, straight dart is created on the wrong side of the fabric, after accurately transferring the pattern and carefully observing the markings, notch to notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point. (with it  (The dart doesn't bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk so you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart filling upwards.

Next, close the shoulder seams, finish the raw edges, and press the seam allowance towards the back.

The neckline edges of the front and back facings are secured with a shaping tape.

Next, sew the facings together at the shoulder seam by placing the facings right sides together. The outer edge of the facing can now be finished all the way around.

Iron the serged facing edge 0.5cm wide onto the wrong side of the fabric and stitch it down.

Now place the facing right sides together on your bodice and pin them together with several pins. Insert the pins perpendicular to the seam. The shoulder seams should align correctly, as should the center back and the neckline point. Now sew the neckline closed all the way around. It's best to sew on top of the facing; this will help distribute any extra fabric in your bodice more evenly.

Next, fold the two seam allowances from the neckline towards the facing and topstitch the edge close to the edge on the facing.

Fold the facing inwards and iron the neckline edge.

You can now topstitch the document with a wide seam, e.g. 3cm wide.

Next, iron the side seam slits and the hems, turning them 1x1 and 1x3cm respectively. This is easiest if the side seams are not yet closed.

Finish the side seams separately, then sew the side seam from the armhole to the mark at the beginning of the slit. The seam and the pressed edge of the slit must meet. Now press the side seam open.

Next, stitch the side slits and the hem 3cm wide.

Now we'll work on the sleeve. Close the seam on the sleeve hem facings.

Iron the top edge of the facing 1cm inwards. This edge has no notch markings.

Close the sleeve seam, finish the raw edge, and iron the seam to the side.

Place the armhole facing right sides together with the sleeve and secure the seam with several pins perpendicular to the seam line. Ensure the notches are aligned. Sew the seam. Now fold both seam allowances towards the facing and topstitch close to the edge. Then turn the facing to the inside, press, and topstitch 3 cm from the edge.

Now insert the sleeve into the armhole and sew it in place. Make sure the notches line up correctly. The back armhole and the back of the sleeve are marked with a double notch. The armhole is then finished.

The middle section of the belt has two pleats on each side; fold the pleats together in the direction of the arrow and stitch them in place. Then, attach the belt strap to this seam.

Now fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew it closed. To allow you to turn the belt right side out later, leave a 3-4 cm opening in the middle of the wider part of the belt. Turn the belt right side out and close the opening with a hand stitch.

Your Athina is finished!

If you get stuck or have any questions, feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de.

We will reply to you as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.