Sewing instructions long blouse Urania

The casual Urania shirt can be sewn in two lengths; the shorter tunic version is shown in the pattern. Urania is a versatile cut, wearable as a dress in summer and as a top the rest of the year. The pleat in the center front pops up below the button placket, giving the shirt plenty of comfort.

Length in the back center = 110cm / 90 cm

Urania was sewn from a cotton poplin in this tutorial.

→ To the “Urania” pattern

Required materials:

We recommend a thin cotton, linen or silk fabric.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	2.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	3.00 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert buttons	0.60 m 7 pieces	90 cm wide 10 mm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Cut out completely glued pieces first using the rough cut and then the fine cut. There is also a video here on gluing and securing pattern pieces. Place the selvedges together so that you can place the back and stand-up collar on the fold. To cut out the front/upper flap, place the right pattern piece on top, cut out both front pieces from the fabric placed on the fold, and then cut the left front/lower flap to the corresponding pattern piece. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts are required from size 44 upwards. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After securing the interfacing, cut it out precisely.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x front part right side of the body/upper leg
• 1 x front part left side of the body/underlap, cut the fold according to the pattern
• 4x pocket bags, 2 each opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x slit strips

also with insert:

• 2x stand-up collar in the fold
• 2x cuff
• 2x buttonhole position VM

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start by finishing the hems of the front and back pieces.

And iron them according to the pattern.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed hem.

Also neaten the side seams of the front and...

... and back part separately.

For the front edge, press the upper and lower flaps over as per the pattern until the end of the button placket. Also press the smaller section of the flap over 1 cm and notch the seam allowance slightly.

Next, sew the front edge, right sides together, up to the corner and neaten the seam allowances. You'll need to snip the seam allowances slightly up to the corner so that everything can be laid flat later.

Put everything in the correct position and pin the top and bottom flaps in place.

Stitch the upper part of the right side of the body close to the edge.

Also stitch the underlap of the left side of the body close to the edge.

Then stitch the diagonal cross stitching on the front piece downwards.

Now it's time to prepare the pocket bags. Neaten up the openings of the bags,...

...stitch them right sides together to the front piece...

... and right sides together on the back piece.

Close the shoulders with right sides facing. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them back.

Now, with right sides together, close the top part of the side seam up to the pocket opening and the bottom part of the side seam up to the beginning of the slit. Press the seam allowances open. Make sure to iron out the slit as well.

Once you have finished ironing, close the pocket bag and neaten the seam allowances.

There is an extra template in the pattern that you can use to easily stitch the pocket bags through the front piece.

Now stitch the hem and slit of the dress all the way around, using the width of a stitching foot.

Now let's move on to the sleeves of the blouse and start with the slit. Here's a video on the rolled slit.

The sleeve has a cuff with a rolled slit. Start by making the slit. To do this, place the slit strip, right sides together, under the notch in the sleeve. Place both pieces under your sewing machine and sew the strip flush with the notch, starting at 0.7cm. At the top of the cut, the seam allowance is only about 2mm and ends at 0.7cm. This means the notch runs straight from 0.7cm to 0.2cm and back to 0.7cm, while the seam allowance of the slit strip always remains the same .

The slit strip is then ironed.

To complete the slit, the slit strip must be folded over twice and stitched through from the right side, close to the edge.

Now you can fix the top corner of the slit on the inside of the sleeve with a seam that runs diagonally upwards.

Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the correct side. The upper flap is ironed over once and stitched in place. The lower flap remains flat. The photo above is of the left arm for orientation; a slit can always be opened backward when worn. Trim the slit strip at the beginning and end to the correct length for the sleeve.

Once the slit has been created, the sleeve pleats can be placed as shown in the pattern. Use the notches and arrows in the pattern as a guide. Secure the pleats with a stitch the width of your topstitcher.

Close the inner arm seam right sides together, neaten the seam allowances together and iron them back.

Iron the seam allowance on the outer cuff side.

Place the cuff right sides together and stitch the short side.

Turn both cuffs right sides together and stitch a large stitch auxiliary seam right next to the ironed seam allowance of the outer cuff.

Now sew the cuff to the sleeve from the inside out. This means placing the inner cuff side, right sides together, against the sleeve hem and stitching through to the left of your stitching guide. This will ensure a neat topstitching of the outer cuff side later. Press the seam allowances upwards into the cuff.

Now you can also stitch the pre-ironed outer cuff side close to the edge and also end up close to the edge on the inner cuff side.

The finished sleeve can now be sewn into the correct armhole, right sides together, and finished together.

For your information, here is a video in which Christel shows you how she works her stand-up collar.

Now it's time to work on the stand-up collar. To do this, iron the outer stand-up collar as well.

Place both pieces right sides together and stitch the top seam. For curves, trim the seam allowances with scissors and then cut or trim them. This prevents the curves from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend using a shorter stitch length on the curve. This ensures a curve that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Turn your stand-up collar right side out and iron it flat. Stitch a stitch directly next to the pressed seam allowance.

Now sew the stand-up collar to the neckline from the inside out. This means placing the inner stand-up collar, right sides together, against the neckline and topstitching to the left of your stitching guide. This will ensure a neat topstitching of the outer stand-up collar later. Press the seam allowances upwards into the stand-up collar.

Now you can also stitch the pre-ironed outer stand-up collar close to the edge and also land close to the edge on the inner stand-up collar.

Finally, choose matching buttons, make matching buttonholes, and sew the buttons onto the center front and cuffs.

Your URANIA is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Best regards, your pattern team!