With blouses, the defining detail is either the sleeve or the collar; with Sil, it's definitely the sleeve. Pleats at the armhole, the generous width of the short sleeve is gathered at the hem with a drawstring and elastic. The short-sleeved Sil is perfect as a light and airy blouse for summer.

Length at the center back = 61 – 69 cm

Sil was sewn in this pattern from a soft viscose.

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing silk or viscose.

Outer fabric	Sizes 34-42	1.30 m	140 cm wide
Outer fabric	Sizes 44-50	1.60 m	140 cm wide
insert	Sizes 34-50	0.35 m	90 cm wide
buttons	Sizes 34-50	6 pieces	8 mm diameter
rubber	Sizes 34-50	0.80 m	1.5 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back and yoke on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Cross marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here on gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x pass in the fraction
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves short opposite

also with insert:

• 1x back part in the fold
• 2x facing front part opposite
• 4x folding supports opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this blouse, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlocker. Alternatively, you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. The marking defines the point of the dart, and the two notches on the side seam define the depth of the dart. To do this, place the notches on top of each other and sew on the wrong side of the fabric up to the marked dart point. Beforehand, draw a line with tailor's chalk to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch and that the side seam ends nicely and straight. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Now we'll take the two cut yokes and the back piece. Both yokes are placed against the back piece and stitched in place. Outside right sides together, inside right sides together.

Both yokes are turned out, ironed upwards, and joined to the shoulder seams of the front piece. In the photo, you can see that both yokes were sewn on at the same time. To do this, crawl from the open neckline or armhole into the shoulder seam, grab the three seam allowances, and sew everything together. There are various techniques for sewing in a back yoke, all of which are great. You can find the rolled version here: Burrito Method

This is what your finished yoke looks like. If you want to further secure the yoke, you can topstitch the seams to the width of your stitching foot.

Next, we close the torso. To do this, sew the front and back pieces right sides together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Facings reinforce a neckline and give it a neat look by facing everything together. To do this, we join the front facing pieces to the back facing. Then press the seam allowances open.

The lower, longer curve is ironed over by 1cm for easier processing later.

Now we can tackle the prepared facing and the body piece. First, press the button placket according to the pattern (twice folded), then turn the facing to the front edge. To do this, sew the facing to the front piece, right sides together, along the first fold/first notch. Do this on both sides of the front edge. For clarity, both pattern pieces are shown together.

Fold 1 is in its ironed position, while fold 2 is opposite to its ironed position. This allows the facing to be turned all the way around with the neckline. You can see in the photo that I didn't iron the button placket beforehand, but I recommend doing so.

The seam allowances of the facing and body are cut in the curve.

Next, the seam allowance is stitched flat, as far as possible . This method not only makes it easier to iron, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, will automatically fold inward. Only the facing is stitched, close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line is then visible only from the inside left side, not from the right side.

Open the button placket, fold the hem twice and then stitch it 0.7 cm wide. Now fold the button plackets back along the ironed folds and stitch the facing and the button placket in one go. This will secure the facing to the body and the button placket as well. To do this, stitch from the wrong side of the fabric, just along the edge, starting at the left hem, over the facing, and ending at the right hem. Note: The yellow lines in the photo define the finished stitching line, as seen from the right side of the fabric.

Short sleeve:

The pleats in the armhole are folded together as described in the pattern and secured with a stitching seam the width of a quilting foot.

Then sew the sleeve together, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and then iron them backwards.

According to the pattern, the hem is folded over twice and ironed.

Make sure you leave a hole for the elastic when stitching through the tunnel.

Cut the sleeve hem elastic to the correct length (the circumference of your upper arm) and push it through the prepared tunnel with a safety pin. Sew the ends of the elastic together.

Finally, close the opening in the sleeve hem and your short sleeve is finished.

The finished sleeve is sewn into the armhole with a 1cm seam allowance, and the seam allowances are neatened. Note the notches in the pattern.

The pleat support is folded in half and neatened along the long side. The short side is gathered to 26 cm and also neatened together. Here's a video showing how I used the pleat support. Sew the pleat support into your armhole, see photo.

The blouse is almost finished. Now all that's left to do is pierce all the buttonholes on the right side of the body as marked in the pattern and sew the buttons on the front on the left side accordingly.

Your SIL with short sleeves is ready ! 

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.