Sewing instructions for Liane coat

Liane is perfect for sewing from knitwear or suede. Make sure the knitwear/fabric doesn't fray at the edges and looks as consistent as possible inside and out. Liane is a great knitted coat for winter over slim-fitting trousers or summer dresses, and made from suede, it's perfect as a transitional coat . Some of the edges are simply trimmed. This helps the coat retain its casual look and soft drape.

Length at the center back = 88 – 96 cm

→ To the “Liane” pattern

In this tutorial, Liane was sewn from artificial leather.

Required materials:

We recommend a soft knit , fulled wool , or suede faux leather , and definitely a fabric with non-fraying edges. The left and right sides of the fabric should look as similar as possible.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	2.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	3.10 m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x collar in the break
• 4x front part, 2x each opposite
• 2x front part center, opposite
• 2x side panel front, opposite
• 2x side panel rear, opposite
• 2x back part, opposite
• 2x upper sleeves, opposite
• 2x undersleeves, opposite
• 2x belts, opposite
• 4x pocket bags, 2x each opposite
• 1x belt loop

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

You'll need a sewing machine to sew this coat. The colored lines in the pictures, along with the description, show you where to sew or glue a seam.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

The pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the front side panel according to the markings in the pattern.

Here's an example photo of the ironed seam allowance. In this case, the seam allowances are ironed in one direction, not apart as usual. In our example, the fabric on the left and right sides is a different color, and the right side of the fabric would then be visible on the inside.

The second pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the center front piece according to the markings in the pattern. The seam allowances are ironed open here, as these seam allowances will not be visible later on the inside.

Now place the prepared pieces, right sides together, on the center front piece. Sew them together. Make sure to stop and tack at the mark before the pocket opening. Skip the seam and start again at the mark after the pocket opening. This is very important, because otherwise you'll sew the pocket opening shut.

Now, topstitch the pocket opening to the width of the stitching foot. To do this, fold away the lower pocket while stitching the upper pocket in place.

Here you can see a detailed view of the stitching of the pocket opening.

Press the seam allowances forward and topstitch to the width of your stitching foot. Make sure you leave out the pocket opening, otherwise you'll end up sewing your bag shut.

Then the middle of the front part is folded back and both pocket bags, which are right sides together, are sewn together with 1cm all around.

Here you can see a view of the center front and front side panels with the pocket pouches and correctly placed seam allowances.

Now let's prepare the back piece. To do this, sew the center back of the back piece together, right sides together. Press the seam allowances in one direction, to the left, for the same reason as described above.

Then the back piece is sewn together, right sides together, with the back side piece and the seam allowances are ironed to the back.

The back piece is also completely finished with stitches the width of a quilting foot. This secures the ironed seam allowances.

Now you can sew the back piece to the front piece, right sides together, and close the side seams. Press the seam allowances to the back.

The front piece is sewn, right sides together, to the center front piece. For the lower part of the hem, fold the hem upwards from the center front piece and stitch it in place. The seam allowances are pressed back.

Here you can see a detailed view of the inside seam of the front piece, showing how the hem was folded up and stitched.

Sew the shoulders of the front and back pieces together, right sides together. Make sure the dividing seams meet. Then press the seam allowances back.

You also topstitch the front piece, using the width of your stitching foot. Of course, you can also topstitch the seam before closing the shoulder. Be careful to slide your bag out of the way under the machine and avoid accidentally stitching it in place.

Now all the pieces are joined together, the hem can be ironed and stitched through at 3.5 cm. Start and end at the dividing seam between the front piece and the center front piece.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed hem and the inside seam.

Now let's prepare the sleeves. To do this, sew the upper and lower sleeves together, right sides together. Press the seam allowances forward.

This seam is stitched from the outside, the width of the stitching foot. The sleeve hem is pressed over according to the notch.

The inner arm seam is sewn together, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed open. Then fold the hem...

… and stitch through at 3.5 cm.

The finished sleeve is now secured in the armhole with pins and sewn together, right sides together. Note the notches in the pattern.

The two remaining front pieces will become the inner facings of your coat. Place one front piece, wrong sides together, against the outer front piece and secure both with a stitch the width of a topstitcher's foot all the way around, including the neckline and the remaining piece at the bottom hem.

The pocket is placed forward and pushed between the facing and the front part.

Then, attach the facing to the front piece by topstitching from the outside in the shadow of the seam. Make sure to stop at the back of the pocket, stop, and continue stitching down the bottom seam allowance of the pocket. If you're sewing continuously, sew your pocket. Work on both front pieces in the same way.

Now let's move on to one of our final steps: the rounded, sewn-on belt loops. None of the long edges of the belt loop strip need to be finished, as we're using a faux leather that doesn't fray. Therefore, we'll directly iron one raw edge, wrong sides together, over by 1.3 cm, and the other edge over by 1.3 cm. Iron everything flat. Finally, topstitch 0.2 cm all the way around the long sides.

The belt loops are closed with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, wrong sides together. The notch in the side seam marks the position of the loop .

The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The belt loop is stitched on so that the previous seam allowance of 0.5 cm disappears underneath.

Prepare the belt by closing the center back, right sides together, and ironing the seam allowances open. Then, iron the belt together in the fold, wrong sides together...

… and stitch the edges together with the width of your stitching foot.

This is what your finished, round, sewn-on belt loop looks like with the belt.

The final step is to sew the collar. Place it, right sides together, over the neckline and sew it on. Press the seam allowances down. Note: If you're using very thin fabric, you can sew a second collar against it, and the seam allowances will disappear between the two collars. To do this, press the seam allowances upwards and topstitch the collar all the way around, using the width of your stitching foot, to ensure both collars are aligned.

The collar is also stitched from the inside, the width of a stitching foot.

Your LIANE is ready ! 

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.