By purchasing this add-on, you can transform the Roberta pattern into a fashionable trench. You get all additional pattern pieces and detailed sewing instructions for processing with this add-on.
Length at center back = 104 - 108 cm
Add-On Roberta was sewn in this sewing instruction from the jacket fabric “Memory” by “Pepelinchen”. Memory is a thin fabric with a satin finish (54% polyester, 46% cotton).
Required material:
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay out pattern pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the snaps from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the position of the pockets, epaulettes and arm loops with chalk on the right side of the fabric. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric with insert:
- 2x front piece receipt in opposite directions
- 1x back piece receipt in break
- 1x belt in break
- 4x shoulder straps
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 2x bridge in the fracture
- 2x pocket flaps outside in opposite directions
- 2x pocket flaps inside in opposite directions
- 4x sleeve tabs
You need from fabric:
- 1x Koller at the back in the break
- 2x loop for the shoulder straps
- 2x belt loop
- 2x sleeve loop
- 2x front part, opposite
- 2x bag
All additionally required pattern pieces for the trench.
Sewing instructions:
To sew this trench you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. When sewing heavier materials, use a 90 gauge sewing needle. In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
In these sewing instructions, only the additional pattern pieces are shown in their processing. You can see all other processing steps in the sewing blog of the coat "Roberta". You may have to switch back and forth between the two sewing instructions.
Happy sewing!
Here we show you how to sew a right/left seam, which you can use in the center back and for the side seams. For example, the seams on garments without a lining are beautifully finished. In the first step, the back pieces are placed on top of each other, left sides facing, and sewn together at 0.5 cm. The seam allowance is now unusually visible on the outside on the right side of the fabric.
In the second step, the back parts are placed right sides together and sewn together with 1 cm. The 0.5 cm sewn seam allowance now disappears into it. This is what the finished seam looks like from the inside.
For processing the yoke, iron the hem 2x 1.5 cm and topstitch at 1.3 cm.
Next, iron in the box pleat using the notches and topstitch the fold just below the edge and at 0.7 cm.
Pin the inverted pleat at 4 cm from the neckline.
Place the yoke on the right side of the back piece and sew 0.7 cm along the raglan seam and the neckline. Also stitch through the front piece at the raglan seam at 0.7 cm. The quilting replaces the gluing of a fixing tape.
The trench has patch pockets with flaps on the front. The upper edge of the bag is folded in 2x 2 cm and stitched at 1.8 cm. Iron the other sides 1 cm. Overlap the inner flaps with the outer flaps with a 1 cm seam allowance. Trim the corners a bit. The snaps in the pocket and flap mark the sides facing center front. This prevents the bag parts from being mixed up.
Topstitch the pocket flaps at 0.2 cm and at 0.7 cm.
Place the pocket on the markings on the front piece and topstitch at 0.2 cm and at 0.7 cm.
The sewing line of the flap (inside facing up) is placed on the marking and sewn with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. You can trim back the seam allowance a bit.
Lay the flap down and topstitch the top edge with 1 cm. The seam allowance should disappear underneath.
Now you prepare the loops for the belt, the shoulder straps and the sleeve straps. To do this, iron the strip into the fold and then iron the side edges to the middle again.
Topstitch the loops on both sides, cut to length and close to form a curve. Iron out the seam allowance. The shoulder and sleeve loops are 8 cm long and the belt loops are 14 cm long.
Overlap the shoulder straps and sleeve straps by 1 cm and trim the seam allowance at the corners.
Turn all bars inside out and topstitch at 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm.
Templates are included with the add-on for positioning the tabs, loops and buttonholes on the sleeves and shoulders. Here we show you the handle for the sleeves. Use the front sleeve hem template to get the position for the bartack (see blue arrows).
With the same template you also get the position of the sleeve loop for the sleeve bar. Mark the drill holes (here blue) with chalk on the right side of the fabric.
The sleeve hem template shows you the position of the buttons. Mark the dots with chalk on the right side of the fabric.
First sew on the loops for the shoulder straps and sleeve straps in the middle with the ironed-on seam allowance facing down. The seam allowance then disappears under the quilting. Stitch the two outer sides of the loop just under the edge. The belt loop on the side seam is only sewn on in the middle.
Use the templates to position the shoulder straps, loops and buttons. The shoulder strap lies with the outside facing up at the marking and is stitched on just below the edge.
Then turn the bar to the left and topstitch with 0.5 cm. The seam allowance disappears under the seam.
Overturn the belt with a 1 cm seam allowance and trim the corners a little. Leave a small opening to turn the belt.
Iron the belt flat and topstitch this one too at 0.2cm and 0.7cm all the way around.
Fold in the sleeve hem 2x 2 cm and stitch at 1.8 cm.
Sew the facings together at the shoulder seams. The outer edge of the facing is neatened and the edges are just understitched.
Fold in the hem of the trench 2x 2 cm. Smooth out the receipt and stitch through it.
Now make eyelet buttonholes in all the marked places.
Don't forget the buttonhole for the bottom button. This is sewn to the inside of the slip.
Your TRENCH ROBERTA is ready!
If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
