By purchasing this add-on, you can transform the Roberta pattern into a fashionable trench coat. This add-on includes all additional pattern pieces and detailed sewing instructions.
Length in the center back = 104 - 108 cm
Add-On Roberta was sewn in this sewing pattern using the jacket fabric "Memory" by "Pepelinchen." Memory is a thin fabric with a silky matte finish (54% polyester, 46% cotton).
Required materials:
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the pattern pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid out with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the position of the pockets, epaulettes, and arm loops with chalk on the right side of the fabric. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here on gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric with interlining:
- 2x front part facing opposite
- 1x back part cover in the fold
- 1x belt in fracture
- 4x shoulder straps
- 1x upper collar in the fold
- 1x undercollar in the fold
- 2x bridge in the fracture
- 2x pocket flap outside opposite
- 2x pocket flap inside opposite
- 4x sleeve tabs
You will need fabric:
- 1x Koller at the back of the fracture
- 2x loops for the shoulder straps
- 2x belt loop
- 2x sleeve loops
- 2x front part, opposite
- 2x bag
All additional pieces required for the trench coat.
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
To sew this trench coat, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlocker. Alternatively, you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the raw edges. When sewing heavier materials, use a size 90 needle. The colored lines in the images show you where to sew a seam, in addition to the description. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
This sewing pattern only shows the additional pattern pieces in their assembly. All other assembly steps can be found in the sewing blog for the "Roberta" coat. You may need to switch back and forth between the two sewing patterns.
Have fun sewing!
Here we show you how to sew a right-to-left seam, which you can use at the center back and for the side seams. This creates a beautifully finished seam on garments without a lining. The first step is to place the back pieces wrong sides together and sew them together at a 0.5 cm seam allowance. The seam allowance is now unusually visible on the right side of the fabric.
In the second step, the back pieces are placed right sides together and sewn together with a 1 cm seam allowance. The 0.5 cm trimmed seam allowance disappears into the seam. This is what the finished seam looks like from the inside.
To make the collar, iron the hem twice 1.5 cm and topstitch at 1.3 cm.
Next, iron the box pleat using the notches and topstitch the fold close to the edge at 0.7 cm.
Fasten the box pleat together at 4 cm from the neckline.
Place the collar on the right side of the back piece and sew it to the raglan seam and neckline at 0.7 cm. Stitch the front piece along the raglan seam at 0.7 cm. This stitching replaces the need for gluing a fixing tape.
The trench coat has patch pockets with flaps on the front. The top edge of the pocket is folded over twice 2 cm and topstitched at 1.8 cm. The other sides are ironed over 1 cm. Turn the inner flaps to the outer flaps with a 1 cm seam allowance. Trim the corners slightly. The notches in the pocket and flap mark the sides facing the center front. This prevents the pocket pieces from being mixed up.
Stitch the pocket flaps at 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm.
Place the pocket on the markings from the front piece and stitch at 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm.
The flap's sewing line (inside facing up) is aligned with the marking and sewn with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. You may want to trim the seam allowance a little.
Fold the flap down and stitch the top edge 1 cm. The seam allowance should disappear underneath.
Now prepare the loops for the belt, shoulder straps, and sleeve tabs. To do this, iron the strip along the fold and then press the side edges to the center again.
Stitch the loops on both sides close to the edge, cut to length, and sew them together to form a curve. Press the seam allowance. The loops for the shoulder and sleeve are cut 8 cm long, and the belt loops 14 cm long.
Trim the shoulder straps and sleeve straps with 1 cm facing and trim the seam allowance at the corners.
Turn all bar tacks over and stitch at 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm.
Templates for the position of the bartacks, loops, and buttonholes on the sleeve and shoulder are included with the add-on. Here we show you how to do it for the sleeves. The sleeve hem template shows you the position for the bartack (see blue arrows).
Using the same template, you can also determine the position of the sleeve loop for the sleeve tab. Mark the drill holes (shown in blue here) with chalk on the right side of the fabric.
The back sleeve seam template shows you the position of the buttons. Mark the points with chalk on the right side of the fabric.
First, sew the loops for the shoulder straps and sleeve tabs in the center with the ironed seam allowance facing down. The seam allowance will then disappear under the stitching. Stitch the two outer sides of the loop close to the edge. The belt loop on the side seam is only stitched in the center.
For the position of the shoulder straps, loops, and buttons, use the same principle with the templates. The shoulder strap is positioned with the outside facing up at the marking and stitched close to the edge.
Then fold the bartack to the left and stitch it 0.5 cm. The seam allowance will disappear under the seam.
Turn the belt out with a 1 cm seam allowance and trim the corners slightly. Leave a small opening for turning the belt.
Iron the belt flat and stitch it all the way around at 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm.
Turn the sleeve hem 2 x 2 cm and topstitch it at 1.8 cm.
Sew the facings together at the shoulder seams. The outer edge of the facing is neatened and topstitched close to the edge.
Fold the hem of the trench coat under 2 x 2 cm. Smooth the facing and stitch it through.
Now make eyelet buttonholes at all marked places.
Don't forget the buttonhole for the underbutton. This is sewn onto the inside of the facing.
Your TRENCH ROBERTA is ready!
If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
