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Summer dresses in a midi length are very trendy. Inka has a round neckline and is sleeveless, the width of the skirt is gathered at the waist with a tunnel band. If you like Inka better in a shorter version, then change the skirt length by the desired amount. The neck hole and armhole are only finished with a band so that no facing shows through.

Length at center back = 127 cm

→ To the pattern “Inca”

In this pattern, Inka was sewn from a soft, draping Tencel fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric, such as viscose, cotton or silk, that is opaque as the dress is unlined.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 3.10 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3.30 m (140 cm wide)

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, back, skirt, tunnel back and tunnel front in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from size 38. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the break
• 2x skirt in the break
• 4x pocket bags, 2x each in opposite directions
• 1x tunnel at the front of the break
• 1x tunnel at the back of the break
• 2x binding tape
• 2x armhole tape slanted FDL
• 1x neck band slanted FDL

also with insert:

• 2x tunnel front reinforcement of the buttonhole positions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Stitch the neck and armholes of the front and back pieces with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot. This means you can guarantee that the stretches will not stretch when using light fabrics.

Now you can place the front and back pieces right sides together and close the side and shoulder seams. The seam allowances are then neatened together and ironed to the back.

Now let's prepare the neck and armhole bands cut at an angle. These are ironed in half, inside out, inside out. Since the stretches expand a little when ironing, you have to position your paper cut again on the ribbons after ironing and trim it to the right extent.

Then all the ribbons are placed right sides together and closed in a round. Iron the seam allowances apart and fold the ribbons again, left sides together.

Stitch the neck and armhole bands together with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot. This step prevents both layers of fabric from slipping.

The now perfectly prepared neck and armhole straps are pinned right sides together and sewn on with 1cm all around.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the neck and armhole processing with the respective straps. The seam of the neck band is on my right shoulder.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also ensures that the band automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the band is stitched on the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

For extremely frayed and thin fabrics, I recommend cutting the seam allowance extra.

Fold the ribbons inside out and iron everything in advance to stitch through.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the quilted neck and armholes.

The top is now prepared and you can concentrate on the tunnel of the dress. Place both tunnel blanks right sides together and close the side seams. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Then iron the top edge 1cm over.

The front tunnel gets buttonholes. To do this, orientate yourself on the cut. Put the tunnel aside.

Take both skirt parts, place them right sides together and close the side seams up to the pocket opening.

Then sew both pocket bags from the front and back of the skirt, right sides together, ending at the height of the side seam at the clip.

Here you can see a detailed photo of a sewn-on side seam pocket. If necessary, you can flat-stitch the edge of the pocket bag.

Both pocket bags are sewn together, right sides together, and the seam allowances are neatened together.

Finish the side seams in one go and press them backwards.

The hem is folded in and folded twice and the edge is sewn into place.

The skirt waist seam is provided with an auxiliary seam for the gathering folds and gathered to the distance indicated in the pattern.

Now take your prepared top and place it on the skirt part , left sides together . The seam then faces outwards, but is later hidden with the tunnel,…

... because the tunnel is then sewn right to right from the outside to the seam allowance and ironed upwards.

Here you can see another detailed photo of how I sewed the tunnel on.

Stitch the ironed-up tunnel all around the bottom seam, close to the edge...

... and close to the edge at the top seam.

Last but not least, all you need to do is process the binding tape. Place the binding tape cuts on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch them together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

The ends of the ribbons are turned right sides together and the corners on both sides are cut away.

Fold the seam allowances in and out and stitch the band all the way around.

Your tie is ready. Drag this through the tunnel. Use a safety pin to help you.

Your INKA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, your Pattern Berlin team.

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