Sewing instructions sweater Umeko

April 13, 2022

We're passionate about patterns with special details, so even simple cuts need to be eye-catching. The Umeko sweater has a beautiful V-neck with wide panels. Its special feature is the "open" sleeve; the seams between the upper arm and the cuffs are individually sewn, giving the sweater an airy feel. The fit of the sweater is rather slim and therefore feminine, but this in no way compromises its comfort. The sleeve, which flares out towards the hem, is gathered with a high cuff.

Length in the center back = 63 – 68 cm

In this tutorial, Umeko was sewn from a thin neoprene fabric/scuba.

→ To the “Umeko” pattern

Required materials:

We recommend a rope or scuba (thin neoprene)

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.80 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.40 m	90 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front, back, and facing at the back on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of darts, pockets, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

1x back part in the fracture
1x front part in the fracture
2x cuff
2x upper sleeves opposite
2x undersleeves opposite

also with insert:

2x aperture at the back in the break
2x front panel
1x front neckline

also with forming tape:

1x rear panel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhrE4Su30uE&t=26s

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your project by finishing the front piece,...

... of the back part,...

... of the two upper sleeves and...

...of the two undersleeves. Use the yellow lines in the photo as a guide.

Then iron the hems according to the pattern.

Now close the shoulder seams right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Next, prepare the back panel for the neckline. Place both pieces right sides together and sew the neckline. Slightly notch the seam allowances in the curve to help it lie flat when turned inside out.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final ironing but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically tucks inward rather than curling up. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Here's a detailed view of the back panel. Iron the back panel together, wrong sides together.

Iron the front panel together, wrong sides together, and iron the pieces into shape a little so that the neckline fits nicely around your décolleté.

Now sew the back panel right sides together to the front and iron the seam allowances apart.

With a rough auxiliary seam all around you secure both layers of fabric from slipping.

The facings overlap at the front. Secure the fabric layers here with a stitch.

Now sew the finished facing into the neckline, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. Then iron them down.

This is what your finished cutout with aperture looks like.

Close the side seams right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Now it's time to work on the sleeves. Sew the back seam of the upper and lower sleeves, right sides together, up to the beginning of the slit. Press the seam allowances open and the slit seam allowances under the slit once.