SEWING INSTRUCTIONS RAGLAN RAINCOAT “SABETE”

In the future, bad weather will no longer be an excuse, with our Sabete raincoat you will be well prepared for walks or hiking trips even in the rain. If the dark clouds disappear on the way, you can fold Sabete and stow it in your back pocket and wear it around you like a cross-shoulder bag . Bound edges, a 2-way zipper in the center front, patch pockets with flaps and the large back pocket for storing the coat are the special details of Sabete. Depending on the material, you can choose between two processing options: the one with bound edges or the classic one with hem allowances.

Length at center back = 103 – 107 cm

→ To the pattern “Sabete”

In these instructions, Sabete was sewn from a transparent and rubberized fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a water-repellent or rubberized outdoor fabric.

Outer fabric	Gr. 34-42	2.30 m	140cm wide
Outer fabric	Gr. 44-50	2.80 m	140cm wide
2-way zip	Gr. 34-50	1 piece	65cm long
Turn ripper	Gr. 34-50	1 piece	25cm long
Binding tape	Gr. 34-50	10 m	20mm finished
Rubber band	Gr. 34-50	1.0 – 1.15 m	3cm wide
Cord stopper	Gr. 34-50	2 pieces
cord	Gr. 34-50	1.00m	0.7mm diameter
eyelets	Gr. 34-50	2 pieces	0.7mm diameter
Backpack buckle	Gr. 34-50	1 piece	3cm wide

Cutting:

The fabric we used is not ironable. Test this with an ironing test beforehand and, if necessary, avoid ironing. Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the back and hood in the fold at the front. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x hood at the front in the break
• 2x hoods at the back in opposite directions
• 1x pocket at the back
• 2x pocket flaps in opposite directions
• 2x pocket flaps inside opposite each other
• 2x pockets at the front in opposite directions
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions at the back
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions at the front
• 2x sleeve placket in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide! Have fun sewing!

We'll start with the sleeves of our new coat. To do this, take the cuts for the front and back sleeves and place them on top of each other, right sides together, and sew the shoulder seam together.

We placed the seam allowance at the front and stitched it with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the sleeve has been processed so far.

Sew the sleeve trim, left sides together , with a auxiliary seam at 0.5cm. We want the seam allowance to be on the outside later.

The highlight of our new coat is the seam allowances with binding, a pre-purchased bias tape. The seam allowance of the sleeve and the placket are bordered with this bias binding. This means that the seam allowance with the piping that is visible from the outside is neatly finished.

The hem of the panel is also edged with the bias tape.

So that the seam allowance of the panel doesn't stick out so much, we stitched it down at the marked positions.

The inside seam of the sleeve is placed, right sides together, and sewn together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

You stick the eyelets into the outer hood at the front. Proceed as follows: Punch a correspondingly large hole for the matching “eyelets with washers” using hole pliers or the punch included in the set and a hammer. The position of the eyelets is marked in the section. Secure the position on the left inside of the fabric with an additional piece of leftover fabric.

The eyelets and washers are placed in the tool according to the manufacturer's instructions, the two tool legs are folded together and the eyelets are pounded into the fabric with a hammer.

The remaining material, fixed for additional security, is now cut to a minimum. Your eyelets are ready!

Then take the cuts for the hood at the back and sew them together, right sides together.

We placed the seam allowances to the left and secured them with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

Now place the front hood part, left sides together , on the back previously processed hood part and sew both together with a 0.5cm auxiliary seam. Here too, the seam allowance should be “visible” to the outside because...

... these seam allowances are also edged with bias binding.

We continue with sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Place the dart contents on top. Info: If the rubbery material is pushing under your feet, use a cardboard template and place it between the feet and the fabric.

The upper edges of the front pocket are folded in and folded twice and the edges are sewn into place.

We secured the position of the bag with an adhesive strip, then folded it over 1cm and secured the edge with a subsequent seam.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the front pocket.

The pocket flap is placed, right sides together, on the inside of the pocket flap and sewn down all around.

For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them. We quilted everything to the width of a quilting foot.

The prepared pocket flaps are placed, right sides together, in the position in the front part and sewn in place with 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the pocket flap was sewn on.

This is then stitched down with an additional seam and secured.

The front piece is prepared and can be sewn together with the back piece, right sides together, at the side seams.

The side seam is stitched back with an additional stitching foot-wide seam and secured.

Now you can also stitch the previously prepared sleeves, left sides together , into the body part with a 0.5cm auxiliary seam. Here too, the seam allowance of the raglan seam will be visible to the outside...

... and bordered all around with a diagonal stripe.

Now take your prepared outer hood and place it, right sides together, at your neck hole on the torso section. Sew both layers together using a 0.5cm stitch.

Now the second cut part of the hood at the front is processed. Sew this piece, right sides together, to the inside of the coat.

This seam allowance is then edged with bias binding. The inner hood lining can then be folded up…

... and secured with an auxiliary seam at 0.5cm.

The entire front edge is also bordered with bias tape.

You can then process your zipper in the front. To do this, use the ripper marking in the pattern as a guide, place the ripper under the finished bias tape and sew on the same stitching of the bias tape.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we sewed in the zipper.

The tunnel of the hood is stitched through and through at an even distance from the front edge and the elastic is inserted beforehand.

Front view of the finished jacket.

Now let's move on to processing the pocket on the back. The zipper may need to be shortened. If this is the case, the cut edge must be caught and secured with a diagonal strip. The pocket at the back is placed on the zipper, right sides together, and stitched in place. Make sure that the seam allowance is tucked in at the end of the rip.

These inner seam allowances are then gathered together with bias tape.

Here you can see detailed photos of the bound seam allowance.

Now let's sew one side close to the edge to the back piece.

Cut the elastic to the correct length and position it, right sides together, at the mark in the cut.

They are then folded back and stitched through again.

Now the elastics are tight and in the right position and the bag can be attached to the back part all around.

The other side of the zipper is also attached to the back piece with a seam.

The hem is bordered with a bias strip and stitched.

Finally, attach the buckles to your elastics in the back.

Your SABETE is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.