Sewing instructions for the Sabete raglan raincoat - with regular fabric

From now on, bad weather is no longer an excuse. With our Sabete raincoat, you'll be perfectly prepared for dog walks or hiking trips, even in the rain. If the dark clouds clear up while you're out and about, you can fold Sabete and stow it in its back pocket, then wear it like a cross-shoulder bag. The two-way zipper at the center front, patch pockets with flaps, and the large back pocket for storing the coat are Sabete's special details.

Length in the center back = 103 – 107 cm

In this tutorial, Sabete was sewn from a sturdy woven fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend a water-repellent or rubberized outdoor fabric.

Outer fabric	Size 34-42	2.30 m	140 cm wide
Outer fabric	Size 44-50	2.80 m	140 cm wide
2-way zip	Size 34-50	1 piece	65 cm long
Turning tearer	Size 34-50	1 piece	25 cm long
edging tape	Size 34-50	10 m	20 mm finished
rubber band	Size 34-50	1.0 – 1.15 m	3 cm wide
cord stopper	Size 34-50	2 pieces
cord	Size 34-50	1.00 m	0.7 mm diameter
eyelets	Size 34-50	2 pieces	0.7 mm diameter
Backpack buckle	Size 34-50	1 piece	3 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back and hood pieces on the fold at the front. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x hood in front in the break
• 2x hood at the back opposite
• 1x back pocket
• 2x pocket flap opposite
• 2x pocket flap inside opposite
• 2x front pocket opposite
• 2x sleeves at the back opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite each other at the front
• 2x sleeve facings opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide! Happy sewing!

We'll start with the pocket flaps of our new coat. Place the outer pocket flap, right sides together, on top of the inner pocket flap and sew it all the way around.
For curves and corners, trim seam allowances with scissors and then cut or trim. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge former. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges; this makes them nice and flat and secures them. We topstitched everything to the width of a quilting foot.

The upper edges of the front pocket are folded over twice and stitched close to the edge. Neaten the other three edges of the pockets with your overlock and iron them 1cm inwards.

We're continuing with the sleeves of our new coat. Take the front and back sleeve pieces, place them right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams together. Neaten the seam allowances together. We then pressed the seam allowance into the front sleeve and topstitched it with a stitch the width of a quilting foot.

Sew the sleeve facings together, right sides together, and neaten the raw edges. We pressed the seam allowance into the sleeve facing and topstitched it with a stitch the width of a presser foot.

Place the inseam of the sleeves, right sides together, and sew them together. Note the seam allowances in the pattern. Neaten the raw edges and press the seam allowance into the back sleeve.

Finally, iron the sleeve hem twice and stitch it through.

We'll continue with the pocket for the back piece. Neaten one of the short edges (marked in green here) and press it over 1cm. Press the other three edges twice by 0.5cm...

and stitch it in place with the zipper on the finished edge.

Take the back piece and place the prepared back pocket on your fabric as shown on the pattern. Now sew the top side to the back piece, close to the edge.

Fold the pockets upward and position the cut elastic, right sides together, along the markings in the pattern. Stitch them in place.

They are then folded back and stitched again.

Now the elastic bands are secure and in the correct position, and the pocket can be attached to the back panel all the way around, close to the edge. The other side of the zipper is also attached to the back panel with a stitch.

We'll continue with the bust darts on the front pieces. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the point, tapering nicely (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch and that the side seam ends nicely and straight. To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Fold the dart's contents to the top.

And this is what your finished dart looks like.

Place the prepared pocket flaps, right sides together, in the position on the front piece and sew them in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Do the same with the pocket, except that it is stitched close to the edge.

The flap is then stitched down and secured with an additional seam.

The front pieces are now prepared and can be sewn together with the back piece, right sides together, at the side seams. The edges are then neatened and ironed back.

Now you can stitch the previously prepared sleeves, right sides together, into the body and neaten them.

Next, sew the hood together, right sides together, and neaten the edges.

You only punch the eyelets into the outer hood according to the markings. To do this, proceed as follows: First, iron a small amount of interfacing onto the spot from the wrong side. Then, using hole punch pliers or the included punch and a hammer, punch a hole of the appropriate size for the "eyelets with washers."

From the right side it looks like this.

Now place the front hood piece, right sides together, on the back hood piece and sew them together.

Now take your prepared outer hood and place it, right sides together, against the neck hole of the torso. Sew both layers together.

Neaten the front edge, then you can add your zipper to the front piece. To do this, use the zipper markings on the pattern as a guide. First, sew the zipper to the seam allowance, right sides together, so that the zipper teeth will be visible later. This is what the whole thing looks like in detail.

Then iron the edges of the inner part of the front hood by 1 cm.

You then sew this piece right sides together onto your hood.

Before we can close the hood, we need to hem the seam allowance of the hood and neckline. Cut a 4cm wide bias strip from your fabric. Sew this to the seam allowance, just beyond the front raglan. Iron this ribbon over three times and stitch it through from the other side, close to the edge.

Pin the facing in place. The hood's tunnel is stitched through at an even distance from the front edge. You can insert the elastic cord beforehand so you don't have to thread it through afterward. Now you can stitch the hood facing to the hood seam from the outside. You also stitch the lower, still open edge from the outside in the shadow of the seam. This is what it looks like from the left.

Just three more steps and you're done. Now stitch the zipper 0.5 cm wide along the front edges from the right side. Then iron the hem twice and sew it in place.

Finally, attach the buckles to your back pocket straps.

Your SABETE is ready ! 

If you are stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.