Sewing instructions for skirt Fay
Level : for experienced users
Side length including waistband = 60-64 cm
Materials needed:
We recommend a soft, flowing to medium-weight fabric such as crepe, viscose, or muslin . You can also use a slightly firmer fabric such as cotton, linen, or denim .
Sizes 34-50 : Outer fabric 1.20m (140cm wide)
Contrast 0.30m (140cm wide)
Insert 0.60m (90cm wide)
Seam ripper 1 x 22cm
Forming strip 1.20m
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need the following fabric:
- 1x front part in breakage
- 2x back piece, mirror image
- 2x pocket bags, opposite each other
- 2x inner pocket bags, mirrored
- 2x front side panel, mirrored
- 1x front saddle broken
- 2x rear saddle opposite
You will need a contrasting fabric with a lining:
If you use a firm fabric, you don't need interfacing for the 3 parts mentioned below.
- 1x front cover in the break
- 2x rear cover, opposite in shape
- 2x front side panel, opposite sides
Also with shaping tape:
- 2x front waistband in the fold
- 2x back waistband, mirrored
- 2x bundle rear inside opposite
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked
To sew this skirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
You prepare the front part first.
For this, you'll pull so-called gathering threads into the basting stitches marked with notches. These are a tool to achieve even gathering. Select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the basting stitches; leave approximately 10 cm of thread. Sew two basting stitches approximately 1 cm apart, at 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two basting stitches. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine the area where gathering is required.
Now, carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam allowance of the side facings. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.
The front center will be addressed later.
Now you stitch the facings right sides together to the front piece, then you remove the gathering threads by pulling out the bobbin thread.
Then the seam allowance is finished together, ironed upwards and topstitched along the edge on the facing.
The inner pocket bag is sewn right sides together to the front side panel, the seam allowance is finished together and ironed downwards.
The large pocket bag is now sewn to the facing, right sides together. Make sure you only sew within the notches; the seam allowance of the pocket bag must not be caught in the stitching.
Now it gets a little challenging: You attach the side panel to the flap and the pocket bag, right sides together.
You can now close this seam in one go and finish the raw edges together. Then clip the seam allowance into the curve of the facing.
The top edge of the facing is topstitched in three steps. You start with the pocket opening, then you do the side sections. (Yellow line first, then the red ones)
Congratulations! You've made it this far, the rest is a walk in the park!...okay, there are still a few potholes, but nothing compared to this ;-)
Now you can join the front panel to the saddle, right sides together, then clip the seam allowances again, finish the edges together, iron downwards and topstitch along the edge of the panel.
Now gather the front center of the skirt piece (you already added the gathering threads at the beginning) and sew the facing with the yoke to the front piece. Finish the seam allowances together, press upwards, and topstitch close to the edge of the facing.
Next, sew the outer waistband to the front piece, right sides together, and press the seam allowance into the waistband.
The front of the skirt is laid to the side and you start working on the back.
First, the back panel is sewn to the back saddle right sides together, then the seam allowances are clipped again, the edges are finished, ironed downwards and topstitched close to the edge on the panel.
Now you can sew the back pieces to the facing with saddle, finish the seam allowances together, iron upwards and topstitch along the edge of the facing.
Next, sew the outer waistband to the back piece, right sides together, and press the seam allowance into the waistband.
Before you sew in the seam ripper, finish the seam allowances of the side seams (also of the front piece) and the center back.
The back center is sewn right sides together up to the zipper notch and the seam allowance is pressed open.
Now you need to attach the appropriate zipper foot to your machine. There are several types of zipper feet. This is one of them.
Now you can turn the upper waistband edge right side out. Carefully trim the seam allowance at the corners.
You topstitch the waistband close to the top and bottom edges,
We're almost there! Now all you have to do is finish the hem, iron it 1.5cm around, and stitch it.
Your Fay is finished!
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.