Sewing instructions for the Lea skirt

Level Intermediate-experienced

Side length including waistband = 59-67 cm, hem width = 112-150 cm

Materials needed:

We recommend cotton, linen, wool or viscose.

Sizes 34-40 : Outer fabric 1.10m (140cm wide)   

Sizes 42-50 : Outer fabric 1.50m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-46 : Lining 0.70m (140cm wide)

Sizes 48-50 : Lining 1.30m (140cm wide)

All sizes: Insert 0.60m (90cm wide)

Seam zipper 1 x 22cm

Lea was sewn from a cotton print in this tutorial.

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 2x back piece, mirror image
• 1x front hem facing on the fold

Also includes insert:

• 2x front band in the fold
• 2x back outer waistband, opposite each other
• 2x waistband back inside, mirrored
  

You will need the following from the feed:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 2x back piece, mirror image

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew this skirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You prepare the front part first.

Following the cutting instructions, create the pleats and secure them with a basting stitch.

Then the sides are neatened and the top edge is finished with the hem facing.

You sew the hem facing to the front piece right sides together, and clip the seam allowance.

Now you topstitch the seam allowance on the facing flat and iron it upwards.

Next, we'll move on to the back section.

First, you close the darts.

A dart is created, after the pattern has been accurately transferred and the markings carefully observed, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch to notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point. (To prevent the dart from bunching up) closed and sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk so you don't sew too much or too little.
To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Then, press the dart towards the center back.

Now you finish the raw edges of the back pieces all the way around, except for the waist edge.

Sew the back center seam right sides together up to the zipper notch. Press the seam allowance open.

Next, the outer cuffs are sewn to the front and back pieces, and the seam allowance is ironed into the cuff.

Now you need to attach the appropriate zipper foot to your machine. There are several types of zipper feet. This is one of them.

The seam ripper is then inserted in the back center up to the top edge of the waistband.

Secure the raw edges of the seam with a few stitches on the seam allowance.

Now sew the front and back pieces together right sides facing along the side seams and press the seam allowance open.

The hem is ironed over and stitched at approximately 4cm.

Next, we'll work on the lining. Fold the pleats in the front and back pieces according to the pattern instructions and secure them with a basting stitch. Then, finish the raw edges of the center back and the side seams. (Don't be confused by the horizontal seam in the back lining; my iron got stuck to it, and I had to recut and piece it back together.)

Now you sew the inner cuffs to the front and back lining and iron the seam allowances into the cuff.

Now you close the side seam and the back center seam up to the zipper notch, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open.

Finally, iron the lining hem over twice by 1 cm and topstitch it. The lining skirt is finished.

You turn the outer fabric skirt inside out and insert the lining skirt right sides together, then you can sew the lining to the zipper.

Now you can turn the top edge of the waistband inside out.

Carefully trim the seam allowance at the corners and also make a few small snips along the top edge.

The seam allowance of the upper waistband edge is topstitched flat on the inner waistband.

Then, from the right side, stitch the inner waistband in place in the shadow of the waist seam.

Your LEA is finished!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your pattern team