Level : medium - for experienced
Length at the center back = 58-71 cm
Brasilia was sewn in this pattern from a viscose jersey
Required materials:
We recommend jerseys made of viscose or cotton
Sizes 34-42
- Jersey 1.00 m (140 cm wide)
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 1.20 m (140 cm wide)
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always the middle. Markings define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
- 1x front part in the fracture
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 2x sleeves opposite
- 3x edging tape
Sewing instructions:
To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges. Make sure you use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then neaten all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another corresponding stitch so that they do not fray. In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart, please sew this according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is sewn as follows after the markings have been transferred exactly. Place notch on notch, draw a line with tailor's chalk so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam ends nice and straight. Sew from the widest point to the tip, tapering nicely (so that the dart doesn't bunch up). So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.
You start with the front part and the sleeves by binding the cut outs. To do this, sew the binding tape with the right side to the left side of the fabric of the front part at a width of the presser foot (0.7cm). Do the same for the sleeves.
While sewing, pull the tape a little tight so that the cut outs don't stretch.
You iron the seam allowance into the ribbon, then you place the ribbon around the seam allowance, fold it over 0.7cm and stitch it from the right edge.
The cut outs are now finished. To ensure that the open ends do not slip during the next step, fix them with a stitch and cut off any excess.
Now you can hem the sleeve hem using the same pattern.
Finish the sleeves by closing the side seams, neatening them together and ironing them to the front. To prevent the seam allowance from showing at the hem, you can attach it to the edging with 2-3 stitches.
Next, you move on to the torso. With right sides together, close the side seams and the right shoulder seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the front.
The last entry for today ;-)
You start at the left shoulder, which is still open, and do it the same way as before.
The left shoulder is closed, the seam allowance is neatened together and ironed to the front. Here, too, you can fix the seam allowance to the piping at the end with 2-3 stitches.
Now you stitch the sleeve into the armhole. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.
Finally, the hem is finished, ironed up 2.5cm and stitched.
Your Brasilia is ready!
If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Best regards, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
