---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Skirt or shorts? Which team are you leaning towards? The narrow Short Agnes gets its comfort from the deep pleat in the front. The slim fit in the back is optimized by darts. The waistband is slightly recessed, so you not only get a nice look, but also good wearing properties. These shorts clearly focus on your legs.

Length = 37 - 45cm

Agnes was sewn from cotton in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Agnes”

Required material:

We recommend cotton or linen.

Sizes 34-38

• Outer fabric 0.80 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 40-44

• Outer fabric 1.00 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 46-50

• Outer fabric 1.20 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Seam ripper 1x 22 cm long
• Insert 0.70 m (90 cm wide)
• Fixing tape 1.20 m (1 cm wide)

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces out of your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the outer and inner waistband inside and outside in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x rear pants opposite
• 1x belt eyelets

also with insert:

• 1x outer waistband at the front in the break
• 1x outer waistband at the back in the break
• 1x inner waistband at the front in the break
• 1x inner waistband at the back in the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew these shorts you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

To sew the seam zipper you need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Additionally, glue a form tape to the upper edge of the inner waistbands. The trouser parts are serged at the hem, side seam, crotch seam and inner leg seam.

A little tip: Iron the hems 2x 1.5cm now and then open them up again.

We start by sewing the darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the contents of the dart towards the center back. Place the clips in the front trousers on top of each other and fix the contents of the folds close to the edge of the waistband.

Place the front pants right sides together on the back pants and close the side and inside leg seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Now close the crotch seam with a 1cm seam allowance and make sure that the inside leg seams meet exactly. Iron apart the seam allowance of the crotch seam on the straight piece. In the curve it stands upwards.

Connect the outer waistbands at the side seam and the inner waistbands right sides together. The left side seam remains open for the zipper.

Prepare the belt loops. To do this, neaten one of the long edges of the ribbon and first fold the open edge in by a third and then fold the neatened edge over it. Stitch the edge of the ribbon on both sides and cut four eyelets of equal length from it.

Sew the outer waistband to the trousers with a 1cm seam allowance and include the four belt eyelets. You can find the position of the eyelets using the clips in the waistband, make sure you are on the right side.

Here you can see a photo of the outside view.

Now we come to sewing the hidden zipper in the left side seam up to the top edge of the waistband. To do this, the sewing foot must first be replaced. Pin the right side of the ripper to the right side of the fabric. The ripper starts at the seam line from the waistband, which means there is a seam allowance of 1cm above that for sewing on the inner waistband without the ripper. When sewing, fold the teeth of the zipper down and stitch the zipper very close.

Now pin the second side of the zipper and make sure the waistband seam is at the same height.

This is how the zipper should sit and end at the yellow arrows.

Sew the inner waistband to the outer waistband with a 1cm seam allowance and pay attention to the clips.

At the ends of the zipper, the outer waistband rolls inwards because the inner waistband is slightly shorter.

The inner waistband is slightly shorter and does not reach the zipper. Stitch the top edge of the waistband close to the edge.

Iron the bottom edge of the inner waistband 1cm and stitch the waistband from the outside. Make sure to grip the inner waistband cleanly. Fold in the belt eyelets 1cm and sew them into place in the stitching line of the top edge of the waistband.

Finally, the hem is stitched. Iron it 2x 1.5cm if you didn't do this at the beginning. Stitch the hem all around.

Your AGNES is ready! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, your Pattern Berlin team.