Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart; please sew this according to the pattern. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the side seam ends nicely and straight.

To avoid having to tack the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents upwards.

First, gather the edges of the front and back pieces according to the markings on the pattern. To do this, sew two auxiliary seams using a long stitch length (3.5-4). Instead of locking these seams, leave the thread hanging at the beginning and end. Tie a knot at one end and pull the other until the seam is the same length as the back yoke. Distribute the gathers evenly. Avoid using two auxiliary seams on silk or delicate fabrics; instead, use only one auxiliary seam that won't be visible in the seam allowance later. Here's a video showing you how to gather.

Do the same on the front shoulder seams.

Iron the long piping strip in half, wrong sides together, and sew it to the back piece with a stitch the width of your quilting foot. Do the same with the piping strips for the front piece.

The yoke is the pattern piece for the upper back. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be slightly tapered. Yokes can be straight, biased, or pointed. If you look at a garment from the inside, you'll notice that the yoke is doubled, meaning a yoke is sewn against it from the inside. This way, the seams are neatly concealed and clean.

First, pin the yoke pieces to the back piece. The back piece is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke, right side facing, on the left side of the back piece.

The notch in the center back allows you to neatly place all the pattern pieces together. Starting at the center back, pin left and right until the seam ends.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is hidden.

Fold the outer yoke upward and iron the seam. Next, join the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. First, sew the outer yoke to the respective front pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances to the back.

Fold the inner yoke toward the shoulder seam. Then, crawl from the open neckline into the shoulder seam and grab the three seam allowances. Sew these three layers together. Place the outer yoke, right sides together, on the front piece, and the inner yoke, right sides together, on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents, and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances face the back, into the yoke, and sit neatly between the inner and outer yokes.

Iron the whole thing flat, making sure you don't iron the ruffles flat.

To continue working, we basted the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. This prevents any shifting.

Next, make the facing for the neckline by ironing the outer edge 1cm all the way around.

Place the facing, right sides together, on the front neckline and sew it in place.

For lace, seam allowances are trimmed with scissors. These seam allowances lay flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures lace that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, will automatically tuck inward rather than roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line will then only be visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not the right side. Turn the facing inside out, wrong side out, and pin it in place for further processing.

Finally, stitch the facing onto the outer fabric, just along the edge.

Next, we'll work on the collar. Place both collar pieces, right sides together, and sew them together. Then trim the seam allowances slightly and notch them at the curve.

Turn the collar inside out and iron the seam allowance of the inner collar by 1cm.

Next, sew the open edge of the outer collar to the neckline with a 1cm seam, right sides together. Note the notches in the pattern.

Now place the collars on top of each other and stitch the inside with a seam close to the edge from the outside.

Neaten the side seams individually and sew them together with a 1.5 cm gap up to the notch. Then double-press and double-stitch the hem, keeping it close to the edge.

Finally, sew the armhole facings together in a round, right sides together, press the seam allowances open, and then press them together, wrong sides together, in the fold. Sew the armhole facings to the armholes, right sides together. Note the notches in the pattern. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them inward.

Your INA is ready!

If you are stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.