With the Moana tunic pattern , you can sew three different models: 1. the short blouse , 2. the medium-length tunic , and 3. the long dress . The different options are marked on the pattern; you just have to decide which you prefer. Of course, you can also choose all three versions. Moana is a summery and slightly playful model; the hem is flared, creating a casual and loose drape around the body. The short sleeves are slightly puffed, and the bust dart ensures the perfect fit despite its comfortable, casual look. The V-neck and the tie that comes out of the back neckline are the special details that define Moana. You can leave the tie hanging or playfully tie it into a bow.

→ To the “Moana” pattern

Lengths in the center back:

• Blouse 60 – 68 cm
• Tunic = 73 – 81 cm
• Dress = 92 – 100 cm

Moana was sewn from viscose in this tutorial.

Required materials:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose , silk or polyester satin . Jersey will also work, but you may need to sew a size smaller.

Blouse:

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.15 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.35 m	90 cm wide

Tunic:

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.50 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.80 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.35 m	90 cm wide

A dress:

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	2.10 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.35 m	90 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back, front facing, and back facing on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x front part in the fracture
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x binding tape
• 2x arm hem band

also with insert:

• 1x receipt in front of the break
• 1x receipt at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this tunic you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the black lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We begin by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the side seam ends nicely and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

The front ties are folded, right sides together, and turned over at the long and short right angles. At corners, the seam allowances are trimmed and cut with scissors. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam doesn't get cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Then, using a long stick, turn the two ribbons together and iron them flat. Note: The fold in the ribbon will later point toward the center front.

Next, we'll work on the facings. We'll start with the front facing and neaten the bottom cut edge.

The finishing seam is ironed inwards…

… and stitched close to the edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the ironed seam allowance of the front facing.

The prepared front facing is placed, right sides together, on the neckline of the front piece and stitched with 1cm.

For lace, the seam allowances are trimmed with scissors. This allows the seam allowance to spread when turned, allowing the seam allowances to lay flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a lace that won't fray as quickly after trimming. The curve also needs to be clipped in so that the facing can be turned neatly inward.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final ironing but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Place the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and close the shoulders. Meanwhile, position your front ties so the fold faces the center front, so they fall straight down, and sew them in place.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the right shoulder seam.

We continue with the back facing and neaten the lower cut edge.

The finishing seam is ironed inwards, wrong side together…

… and stitched close to the edge.

Next, place the prepared back facing, right sides together, against your back neckline and sew it in place. The curve needs to be notched so the facing can be neatly turned inward.

The shoulder seams are neatened together and ironed back.

First, iron the seam allowances apart to make it easier to turn the facing inwards, and then turn the back neckline.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the right shoulder seam.

Now you can secure the neckline all around with a stitch the width of your quilting foot.

Close the side seams by placing the front and back pieces, right sides together, and stitching them together with a 1.5cm indentation. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Then neaten the hem of your tunic…

… iron it 2cm and stitch it in place.

The folds within the armhole are placed as described in the pattern and secured with an auxiliary stitch.

Do the same with the folds in the hem of the sleeve.

The sleeve can now be placed, right sides together, and sewn together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Place the bias-cut armhole bands, right sides together, and sew them together. Press the seam allowances open.

The hem band is placed on the sleeve, right sides together, and sewn on with a 0.7cm seam allowance.

The seam allowance is then ironed down.

The prepared sleeve is now ready to be sewn on your sewing machine. To do this, fold the tape over twice while sewing, then topstitch the sleeve hem tape from the right side, close to the edge. Note: Folding the tape on the sewing machine allows for any necessary adjustments, unlike ironing the tape beforehand.

Finally, sew your prepared sleeves, right sides together, into the armhole and neaten the seam allowances. Note the notches in the pattern (double notches mean back).

Your MOANA is ready !

If you are stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.