The unlined transition coat has eye-catching bindings along the edges. In a contrasting color, these come into their own, and at the same time the seams do not have to be neatened. The quilted knitted collar allows you to sew Undine with or without a collar. The exposed pockets are also bordered and the zipper is only sewn on or under. Our coat made of white patent leather shows you that you can of course sew Undine with the seams on the inside.
Length at center back = 99 - 101 cm
Undine was sewn from a solid cotton fabric in this pattern.
Required material:
We recommend a cotton, suede or light quilted fabric.
| Sizes 34-42 | outer fabric | 2.00 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 44-50 | outer fabric | 2.40 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | knitted cuffs | 0.15m | 60 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | edging tape | 11.00 m | 2 cm finished |
| Sizes 34-50 | Zipper divisible | 1 x piece | 70cm long |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 46 bust darts must be used. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You need from fabric:
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves-rear opposite
- 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions
- 2x bag opposite
- 2x flap outside
- 2x flap inside
You need from rib:
- 1x collar in break
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine to sew this coat, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
Sizes 46-50 have a bust dart, please sew this according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip
Begin with the two back parts, lay them, left sides together , on top of each other and close the center back. Neat the seam allowances together and iron them in any direction.
Then sew the side seams right sides together . Neaten the seam allowances here as well and then press them backwards.
Sew the shoulder seams together, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.
Stitch the piping band on the center back on both sides with a narrow edge over the outward seam allowance.
Now you pipe the front edge, neckline and hem all around with the binding.
Now come to the processing of the front pockets. Neaten the mesh with the serger...
... and then iron it according to the pattern.
The pockets, as well as the flaps (place the flaps left on the wrong side) are piped in all around.
Stitch the pockets to the markings in the pattern on the front pieces.
Provide the flaps with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot to secure both layers of fabric...
...then place them right sides together at the markings on the front pieces and stitch the flaps in place one foot wide.
Iron them down and stitch through with a seam the width of a stitcher's foot, so the seam allowances disappear underneath.
Take the collar cut out and iron it left sides together in the fold. Stitch an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot for extra security of the two layers of fabric.
Piping the quilted lower cut edge with the edging tape.
Place the prepared collar, right sides together, against the piping of the neckline from the inside and stitch the collar in place.
Then you work on the sleeves. To do this, place the back of the sleeve, wrong sides together, on the front sleeve and pipe in the seam allowances.
Sew the inner arm seam right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.
Place the prepared sleeve in the right armhole , wrong sides together , and sew it in place with a seam that is the width of a stitching foot. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut.
The armhole is then also piped in.
You also give the hem a piping all around.
Now all you have to do is stitch the zipper on both sides. Orientate yourself on the marking in the cut.
Your UNDINE is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
