NÄHANLEITUNG WINDHEMD “SELMA”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS WINDSHIRT “SELMA”

The wind shirt is ideal for layering and protects against wind and weather, while at the same time you have a hip-length top that can be wonderfully combined with our Smilla leggings . Selma has many beautiful details, such as the contrasting colored elastic edging, which holds the edges easily and gives it a very sporty look. The zippers and the inner hood are also in a contrasting color and last but not least, the waist can be adjusted narrower or more casually as desired using the elastic cord in the back.

Length at center back = 77 – 83 cm

→ To the pattern “Selma”

In these instructions, Selma was sewn from a polyester sports fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a thin and soft outdoor fabric and a contrasting mesh hood lining.

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 1.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 1.90 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 contrast 0.35m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 Ripper ntlb. 1 piece 25cm long
Sizes 34-50 Ripper ntlb. 2 pieces 16cm long
Sizes 34-50 elastic. Binding tape 4 m 2cm wide
Sizes 34-50 elastic. cord 0.80 m 3mm
Sizes 34-50 Cord stopper 1 piece
Sizes 34-50 eyelets 2 pieces

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back, pocket bag and tunnel in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x hood middle
  • 1 x Hood Center Contrast
  • 2x hood opposite
  • 2 x hood contrast opposite
  • 2x pocket bags in the break
  • 2x pocket receipt
  • 1x front part in the break
  • 1x back part in the break
  • 1x tunnel at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your sewing work with the hoods. Place one hood piece and the middle of the hood together, right sides together, and sew the seam.

Sew the second hood piece, right sides together, to the other section of the middle. The seam allowances are then clipped into the curve of both seams and ironed inwards.

Stitch the seam allowances with a seam close to the edge.

Do the same with the inner hood.

Tip: We have covered the pocket windows with an extra insert on the left side of the fabric for additional stabilization. But that depends very much on the material and whether it is extra necessary.

The pocket bag is placed on the left side of the fabric of the front part according to the marking in the cut and secured. Place the pocket facings on the right side of the fabric and secure them with needles. The pocket window is sewn through all layers of fabric at the same time.

Here you can see a detailed view of the left side of the fabric.

Here you can see a photo of the right side of the fabric.

And again in detail.

The window is now cut: in the middle between the two seams, until approx. 1.5cm before the end. Here you cut a triangle, down to the last stitch.

Before we turn the pocket facings inside out, they are stitched flat on the edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the receipts were stitched down.

Now the receipts can be pulled inwards and lie on the previously fixed pocket bag.

Here you can see a detailed photo of what a receipt looks like when it has been processed.

The appropriate ripper is placed under the resulting window and stitched all around.

This is what the ripper looks like when finished.

The second pocket bag is placed on top of the other one, right sides together, and stitched all around. The seam allowances are neatened together.

For additional security, a seam is stitched through both pocket bags right next to the zipper.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the extra seam on the zipper.

The tunnel for the back part is ironed on the long sides.

The eyelets are cut into the back part according to the markings and secured with a double layer of fabric.

The tunnel is placed on the back piece according to the marking and stitched under the edge on the left side of the fabric.

The rubber is pulled through the tunnel and secured on the sides.

The pocket bag is now cut up to the mark on the front part...

... and specially stitched.

The gathering seams in the neck hole are sewn and prepared with two large stitches from clip to clip.

Here we have a video on the subject of ruffle processing and gathering pleats:

Then sew the shoulders together, right sides together, and finish the seam allowances. These are then ironed backwards.

The gathering seam in the back also needs to be prepared.

The outer hood is placed right sides together on the torso section. When sewing, make sure your gathering folds are evenly distributed. You can secure the smooth stretches with pins beforehand.

This is what your seams look like from different perspectives of the hood.

Now you can also pin and sew the inner hood to the body part, right to left.

The hoods are turned up and sewn together, left sides together, with an auxiliary seam all around.

Now let's start processing the elastic band. Cut it to the right length and pin it to the neckline in the front. Sew the seam close to the edge, starting at the neck hole point, straight up to the top of the neckline and ending at the top of the hood. Info: If the foot pushes, use extra cardboard and place it under the foot.

The ends are then sewn together, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed view of how the elastic band was sewn on and the ends are closed.

Now mark the half of your ribbon that hasn't been sewn on yet with a pin and place this middle on the middle of your hood and pin both in place. When stitching through the edge, pull the elastic band a little. This way you distribute the length of the hood evenly and create small gathering folds.

The elastic band is additionally fixed and finished at the top of the neckline with a diagonal seam.

This is what the neckline tip looks like at the end.

The marking and position of the ripper in the center front is measured from the pattern and transferred to the wind shirt with chalk. The ripper is then placed under the neckline at the marked mark and sewn all around on the seam of the elastic band.

This is what the sewn-in zipper looks like at the end.

The end of the ripper is secured with an additional piece of fabric.

The armholes are easier to work with when open, which is why we haven't closed the side seams yet. Cut the elastic bands for the armholes to the right length and sew them on close to the edge. Here too, the width is evenly distributed in the armhole by gently pulling the band.

Close the side seam, neaten the seam allowances and press them to the back.

The elastic band for the hem is also cut, pinned and sewn into place. Here too, the width is evenly distributed in the hem by gently pulling the band.

Your SELMA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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