In November 2019 we released the first pattern developed with Manu, the Emilea hoodie . A year later, we are very pleased to be able to present you with a successor. SVEA – a jacket in a sporty military style, with patch pockets, shoulder flaps and arm straps. This jacket combines many details, such as the zipper in the center front, which is covered by the panel, and the various latches that you can fix with sporty printers. Each of the small details is well thought out, as we have come to expect from Manu. Due to the different divisions in the cut and the many details, it is worth using a contrasting fabric, such as a wool fabric with oilskin.
In these instructions, Svea was sewn from a wool/polyamide blend.
Required material:
We recommend a sturdy cotton or wool fabric.
Sizes 34-40
Outer fabric
1.50 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
Contrast fabric
0.60 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
Lining fabric
1.20 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
inlay
1.60 m
90cm wide
Sizes 42-50
Outer fabric
1.90 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
Contrast fabric
0.60 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
Lining fabric
1.40 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
inlay
1.80 m
90cm wide
Sizes 34-50
fixing tape
1.10 m
12mm wide
Size 34
ripper
56cm long
divisible
Sizes 36-38
ripper
58cm long
divisible
Size 40
ripper
60cm long
divisible
Sizes 42-50
ripper
65cm long
divisible
Sizes 34-50
Printer
9 pcs.
10mm diameter
Sizes 34-40
Outer fabric complete
1.90 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
Outer fabric complete
2.30 m
140cm wide
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvages parallel to the center so that you can place the yoke at the back, the hem facing at the back, and the facing at the back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from size 42. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video from us about gluing and fixing cut parts.
What you need from fabric:
1x yoke at the back in the fold
2x back at the bottom opposite
2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
2x upper sleeves at the top in opposite directions
2x undersleeves in opposite directions
1x underpass on the left
2x pockets in opposite directions
1x ribbon
also with insert:
1x front part on the right
1x yoke at the front right
2x collar
1x panel at the top right
1x panel at the bottom right
1x receipt on the front right
1x receipt at the back of the break
1x receipt on the front left
1x front part on the left
1x yoke at the front left
2x hem facings at the front in opposite directions
1x hem facing at the back in the break
1x collar bar
2x shoulder straps in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps at the top in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps on the inside opposite each other
2x pocket flaps at the bottom in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps on the inside opposite each other
2x pocket receipts in opposite directions
2x arm bars in opposite directions
You need from food:
2x front part lining opposite
2x front yoke lining opposite
2x upper sleeve lining in opposite directions
2x undersleeve lining in opposite directions
1x back lining in the break
Sewing instructions:
To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine.
If you use a zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide! Have fun sewing!
Lining: The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve, right sides together, and the inner arm seam is also closed. However, an opening of approx. 20cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now let's take the front yoke lining part and sew it to the front lining part, right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
We continue with the back part. There is a lining fold in the center back. Place the back piece in the fold and sew the width of the fold down about 2cm from the edge and secure it well. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem.
According to the pattern, the side seams are sewn right sides together and then ironed to the back.
According to the pattern, the shoulders are sewn together right sides together and then ironed to the back.
Both lining sleeves are turned to the right side and inserted into the previously prepared torso. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeve.
The food can be put aside for now and we can start with the small parts. The top pocket flap is sewn together with the top pocket flap inside right sides together (see photo). The pocket flap at the bottom is sewn together with the pocket flap at the bottom, inside right sides together.
For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.
After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.
Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will make them nice and flat and secure them additionally.
The collar bar, shoulder bar and arm bar are folded right sides together and sewn together (see photo).
For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.
After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.
Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.
Here you can see all the latches and pocket flaps at a glance.
The bags have a so-called pinch fold. The cut shows you in which direction the folds are ironed. The bag is then ironed 1cm all around. If you are using a really thick wool fabric, you can also choose the pocket cut without the pinch fold, which is included as an option in the cut.
The lower cut edge of the pocket facings is cleaned. Then a pocket facing is stitched onto a pocket, right sides together, and the facing is folded inside out. The seam allowance is then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.
The prepared pocket can now be positioned at the markings on the front piece, pinned and stitched in place at the width of a quilting foot.
The prepared pocket flap at the bottom can now be positioned at the markings on the front part, pinned and stitched in place with a 1cm seam allowance. However, the seam allowance is then trimmed by 0.5cm. Then the pocket flap is folded down...
... and quilted through the width of a quilting foot. This means that the cut seam allowance disappears under the stitching seam. Pay attention to the rolling width of the outer pocket flap, otherwise the flap will stick out.
The prepared pocket flap at the top can now be positioned left to right at the markings on the front part, pinned and stitched in place with a 0.7cm auxiliary seam.
The cut yokes: front right and front left are sewn to the respective front pieces, right sides together. In the photo you can see the left side of the body. Then iron the seam allowances upwards.
The seam allowances are stitched to the yoke with a stitching foot width.
The back pieces are closed right sides together in the center back. Then you iron the seam allowances apart.
For the ribbon or hanger on the back of the jacket, the seam allowances are ironed 0.5cm towards the middle, folded and stitched through just under the edge. The band is then ironed flat to form a curve.
The prepared band can now be positioned at the markings in the cut, right sides together, between the back piece and the yoke, pinned and stitched in place with a 0.7cm auxiliary seam. The yoke is then sewn to the back piece, right sides together.
The yoke at the back is folded up and with it the seam allowances, which are stitched to the yoke with a quilting foot width.
The finished back part and the prepared front parts are additionally reinforced with forming tape: namely the neck holes and armholes.
Close the body by sewing the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Close the shoulder seams. Iron the seam allowances apart.
The bottom seam of the outer collar is sewn to the neck hole of the front and back pieces.
The facings: front left, back and front right are sewn together, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart.
A hanging strap made from lining is pinned between the facing and the collar in the center back.
The bottom seam of the inner collar is sewn to the neck hole of the prepared facing.
The top right panel is sewn together with the bottom right panel, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.
The finished panel is sewn to the right front piece, right sides together; here too, the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now take your zipper and the right side of your body. Starting at the clip under the collar, position the ripper at the raw edge of the placket, right sides together. Sew the zipper down to the bottom. The snap fasteners are then pierced.
The panel is ironed in the fold and placed inside.
The underlay on the left is twisted on the two short sides, right sides together, and then ironed in folds.
Position and secure the prepared shoulder straps at the clips in the cut.
The zipper for the left side of the body is put on and secured with an auxiliary seam. Then the prepared underlay is stitched through left, right sides together.
Finish left side of body.
Now the facing is sewn on both front edges of the right and left side of the body.
The inner and outer collars are fastened together and the top seam is closed.
The hem facing at the front is sewn together with the hem facing at the back, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now the finished hem facing can be brought together with the sewn facing. Make sure to leave 1.5cm of space so that there is enough seam allowance to sew on the lining later. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now you can stitch the hem facing to the hem, right sides together.
The seam allowance is then stitched flat as far as you can reach it. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.
The inner facing on the front right is secured by extra stitching. To do this, sew through the band in the shadow of the seam.
Before you start working on the sleeves, the hems are ironed according to the clips in the pattern. The upper sleeve is sewn together with the matching lower sleeve, right sides together.
The upper sleeve at the top is sewn together with the upper sleeve, right sides together.
The top of the upper sleeve is folded up and with it the seam allowances, which are stitched to the top of the upper sleeve with a quilting foot width. According to Knips, the prepared arm bar is positioned and secured in the cut. The snap fasteners are pierced according to the markings in the cut. Be sure to stick a small piece of insert under the position of the printers to prevent them from tearing out.
Finally, the inner arm seam is closed. This means that the arm bar is enclosed in the seam.
This is a closed sleeve with arm tabs and press studs. The second printer gives you the opportunity to make the sleeve narrower.
Next, sew the sleeves into your jacket. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeve. Note that the shoulder bar button requires a counter button on the shoulder seam. We advise you to stick a piece of insert to this area so that the seam doesn't come undone and everything is a little more stable.
Before the lining is sewn to the facing, the seam allowances of the collars are placed on top of each other and secured with an auxiliary seam on the bottom seam allowance.
Now comes the food. Put the lining into your jacket the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric.
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here.
Start by sewing the lining to the front facing. Start and end at the point where you left the 1.5 cm open. Sew all the way around, making sure the clips and shoulder seams line up. The seam allowances of the facing and lining are ironed flat into the lining.
Then sew the lining together with the hem facing at 1 cm. Only close the first and last 5cm of the hem here. You still need the large hem opening to finish the sleeves.
Then fold the hem facing up and sew the seam allowances from the hem and front facing together. You close, so to speak, the 1.5cm that you left open at the beginning.
Then sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, we first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining to the hem with a needle. Then we pull out the sleeve and lay the rest.
Then grab the seam allowance of the lining armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with a strip of lining (approx. 3-4cm long) so that the lining has approx. 3cm of leeway. Then sew the strip to the outer fabric in the same position.
The seam allowances under the armpit of the lining and fabric are held together with a bartack.
Now you can close the hem by leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire jacket through the armhole. You sew the remaining piece of hem closed by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the still open hem to sew it up.
Now all you have to do is sew the armhole in the lining close to the edge and your jacket is finished sewing.
The prepared collar bar can now be positioned at the markings on the right collar, pinned and stitched in place with a 1cm seam allowance. However, the seam allowance is then trimmed by 0.5cm. Then the collar bar is folded to the side and stitched through to the width of a quilting foot. This means that the cut seam allowance disappears under the stitching seam. Pay attention to the rolling width of the outer collar bar, otherwise the bar will stick out.
Finally, hammer in the remaining snap fasteners.
Your SVEA is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact usby email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
What you need from fabric:
The bottom seam of the outer collar is sewn to the neck hole of the front and back pieces. 
Start by sewing the lining to the front facing. Start and end at the point where you left the 1.5 cm open. Sew all the way around, making sure the clips and shoulder seams line up. The seam allowances of the facing and lining are ironed flat into the lining. 
