Sewing instructions for winter coat Justina

Sewing a coat is usually quite challenging, but not our Justina coat pattern . Details like the stand-up collar and seam pockets in the cross-seams are not difficult to work with. The dropped shoulders, the slight O-shape, and the mix of fabrics create a casual and comfortable fit.

Length at the center back = 88 – 90 cm

→ To the “Justina” pattern

In this tutorial, Justina was sewn from a quilted fabric and the sleeves from corduroy.

Required materials:

We recommend padded outdoor clothing with a coarse knit or soft felt.

Size 34-42	Outer fabric	1.40 m	140 cm wide
Size 44-50	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140 cm wide
Size 34-42	feed	1.60 m	140 cm wide
Size 44-50	feed	2.10 m	140 cm wide
Size 34-50	Knit	1.10 m	140 cm wide
Size 34-50	insert	1.10 m	90 cm wide
Size 34-50	Snap fasteners	4	24 mm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Make sure you cut the quilted fabric correctly. The quilting should overlap at the dividing seams. Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric, and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the collar, back piece, and facing back on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After securing the interfacing, cut it out precisely. Here's a video on gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need (quilting) fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x collar in the break
• 2x pocket bags opposite
• 2x front part-top opposite
• 2x front part center opposite
• 2x front part-bottom opposite

You will need (knitted) fabric:

• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x piping-bottom
• 2x piping top

also with insert:

• 1x collar in the break
• 1x receipt-back in the break
• 2x receipt-front opposite

You will need from food:

• 1x back fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x pocket bags opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Before sewing, you need to stitch the cut quilted fabric all the way around with a stitch the width of your quilting foot to secure the individual layers. To sew this coat, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlocker, or you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, take the lining and stitch the back pleats together at the center back, right sides together. To do this, sew 5cm down at the neckline and 5cm up at the bottom notch.

Then iron the pleat in the back to the left side of the body.

Next, sew the bust darts on the lining front pieces. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to avoid over-stitching and ensure the side seam is nice and straight.
To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Now place the lining front and back pieces together, right sides together, and close both the shoulder and side seams. Note the seam allowances in the pattern and press them back.

Sew the sleeves together, right sides together. Leave about 10 cm of the left sleeve open for turning the coat later. Note the seam allowance in the pattern and then press it open.

Now place the sleeve, right sides together, into the prepared lining piece and sew everything together.

The dropped shoulders create this angular sleeve shape. Seam allowances are trimmed with scissors at corners. The seam allowance can spread nicely when turned and won't be a problem. It's especially important that the seam doesn't get cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Now for the piping. The two top piping pieces are folded, wrong sides together, and stitched through with a stitching stitch to secure them.

Place a piping, right sides together, on the top quilted front piece and sew them together. Make sure the piping fold is at the top.

Now place the middle front piece, right sides together, on the piping and stitch everything together.

Place the quilted pocket bag, right sides together, on the middle front piece and sew the two together.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat.

Sew the bottom piping to the edge of the lower front piece, just as you did with the top dividing seam. Then place this piece, right sides together, on the center front piece and stitch them together. Make sure to only stitch up to the markings, otherwise you'll sew the pocket opening shut.

Sew the lining pocket pouch to the lower front piece, right sides together. To do this, push the quilted pocket pouch slightly out of the way.

You also stitch the lining pocket bag flat onto the seam allowances.

Now place both pocket bags on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch the bag all the way around.

The front pieces are now perfectly prepared, and you can place them, right sides together, on the back piece and sew both the side and shoulder seams together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. The seam allowances will always be spread apart in the following steps because the quilted fabric cannot be ironed.

The sleeves are made of knitted fabric and have been given extra interfacing because the material is quite thin, or rather, of normal thickness, and the interfacing provides extra warmth. Close the inner arm seam of both sleeves, paying attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. Spread the seam allowances apart or iron them (depending on whether the fabric can be ironed).

The sleeve hem is secured with a pin on the seam allowances. The hem is then basted all the way around with a basting stitch.

Now sew the sleeves, right sides together, into your almost finished coat.

A special detail on our Justina is the high stand-up collar. Here I'll show you the easiest way to sew it. Place both pieces, the quilted collar and the knitted collar, right sides together, and stitch the top edge of the collar.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the inner collar, if not topstitched separately, automatically tucks inward rather than rolling out. Only the knitted collar is stitched close to the seam allowances. The stitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Now turn both collars inside out, place the seam allowances toward the knit fabric, and sew the shorter sections together on the outside. Trim the seam allowances at the corners of the collar slightly for easier turning later.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the collar's workmanship.

You can also prepare the facings by sewing the back facing and the front facings together, right sides together, and ironing the seam allowances open.

Now stitch these, right sides together, to the front edge of the front piece, …

... at the hem, leave a 1cm seam allowance on the facing for later processing with the lining.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Now, work on the top corners of the overlap and underlap on the front piece. Fold the seam allowances toward the facing and stitch the facing and front piece together, right sides together, until the notch is reached. Trim the seam allowances in the corner.

Sew the outer collar (quilted fabric) to the back piece, right sides together,…

...and sew the inner collar (knitted fabric) to your prepared facing, right sides together. Trim the seam allowances at each corner.

Iron or spread the seam allowances of the inner and outer collars…

...so that you can then place the collar, wrong sides together, and sew the seam allowances together using the stitching foot.

Fold the hem of your jacket upwards at the notches and secure it to the side seams with a basting stitch. We recommend basting your hem all the way around with a witch's stitch. Remember to leave a 1.5cm seam allowance for the lining.

For your information: We have prepared a video in which Ellen explains step by step how to best insert the lining into a jacket:

Now stitch your prepared lining, right sides together, all the way around your facing.

The knitted sleeves are now sewn together with the lining sleeve, right sides together.

Secure the underarm point on the seam allowances of both fabrics.

This is what the finished lining sleeve looks like turned inside out.

Now all that's left to do is close the hem of your new coat. Make sure you leave at least 10 cm open at the center back. After turning your jacket right side out through this opening, close the hem completely through the opening in the left sleeve. You also need to sew this opening shut, keeping it close to the edge. Pull the turned jacket into shape, and press the seam allowances of the hem upwards.

The final step is to place your snap fasteners in the correct positions on the jacket and sew them in place.

Your JUSTINA is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.