COLLAR PROCESSING

A blazer also needs a collar. First, the bars are sewn to the collar and the seam allowances ironed open.

With this collar finish, the seam on the right and left was also stitched close to the edge.

Then you put the two collars on top of each other and sew them together. You can either iron the seam allowance to one side or sew it to the undercollar just next to the seam.

Again, in our glossary, flat-stitching seam allowances” is described in more detail. Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

The next step is to sew the short sections together. Do not sew the entire length, but leave 1cm free at the end. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

Also here in our glossary cutting seam allowances” is described in more detail. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

Now the prepared collar can be inserted into the previously prepared torso.

When attaching the collar, it is best to start at the front. The undercollar is sewn to the front and back pieces. The upper collar is connected to the facings. Sew on the undercollar from the snap in the front to the corner.

Then place the facing on the front piece and sew together the stretch from the front edge to the snap.

Unfold the whole thing again and sew the upper collar to the front facing from the snap to the corner. Repeat these three steps at the other end of the collar.

Then you sew the back neckline facing to the front facing (both sides). Then you can fully insert the collar.

Cut the corners just before the seam ( the yellow lines in the photo). If you don't do this, you won't get the collar turned around to sew to the back neckline. However, we recommend that you make this cut while you are sewing: sew, stop in the corner, cut in, being careful not to cut the yarn, turn the collar around and continue sewing.

Sew the undercollar to the neckline from the corner across the center back to the other corner.

You do the same with the upper collar at the neckline facing. Important: you can sew a hanger into this seam.

This is what the finished collar looks like from the inside. You should iron out the seam allowance and the arrows will tell you what's going to happen next. Fold the seam allowances together...

... and sew the seam allowances together.

The collar is ready.

Have lots of fun with it

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