SCHNITTMUSTER-HACK “CLARA”

PATTERN HACK “CLARA”

The corsage Clara has a great fit thanks to its Viennese seams and can be worn with or without straps. Corset rods are worked into the rear dividing seams, which provide the right support. Here I show you a small suggestion for change.

In order to get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

In these instructions, Clara was sewn from cotton and pleated fabric.

→ To the pattern “Corsage Clara”

Required material:

We recommend a fabric with some firmness, such as taffeta, silk or denim.

Sizes 34-50 outer fabric 0.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 lining 0.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 inlay 1.60 m 90 cm wide
Sizes 34-36 tear tlb. 1 piece 27cm long
size 38 tear tlb. 1 piece 28cm long
size 40 tear tlb. 1 piece 29 cm long
Sizes 42-44 tear tlb. 1 piece 30cm long
Sizes 46-48 tear tlb. 1 piece 31cm long
size 50 tear tlb. 1 piece 32cm long
Sizes 34-36 boning 2 pieces 25cm long
size 38 boning 2 pieces 26cm long
Size 40-42 boning 2 pieces 27cm long
Size 44-46 boning 2 pieces 28cm long
Size 48-50 boning 2 pieces 29 cm long
Sizes 34-38 pleated 0.80 m 140cm wide
Sizes 40-42 pleated 0.90 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-46 pleated 1.00 m 140cm wide
Sizes 48-50 pleated 1.15m 140cm wide

Cut change:

In order to be able to cut your pattern pieces, you have to do a few steps beforehand. To get a perfect fit, you can sew a sample piece out of nettle to see if your waist is where you marked it and if the waist measurement is correct for you. When you try on the nettle, you can simply mark out your stretches and transfer them to your pattern. When you try on the nettle, you can simply mark out your stretches and transfer them to your pattern.

I'm very tall (1.78cm) so my waist position is slightly lower than on the original pattern. I tucked away the extra width in the waist circumference at the dividing seams and transferred it to the pattern. You can also keep the default waist position here. To do this, you draw the waist line in the front, side and back parts by connecting the snaps on all pattern parts.

Now mark your seam allowances of 1cm on your new raw edges and cut off the excess of the waist circumference.

You now transfer the correction you have made to your lining pattern.

cutting:

From the outer fabric and lining you need:
  • 1x front part in break
  • 2x side part in front of the same
  • 2x side part at the back in opposite directions
  • 2x back piece in opposite directions
For the pleated strip, we recommend a rectangle with the dimensions:

Seam allowance included:

size 34 = 71cm x 32cm

size 36 = 75cm x 32cm

size 38 = 79cm x 32cm

size 42 = 87cm x 32cm

size 44 = 92cm x 32cm

size 46 = 97cm x 32cm

size 48 = 103cm x 32cm

size 50 = 109cm x 32cm

You can also change the length of the pleated blind here.

Now you can fix your outer fabric with an interlining.

Sewing instructions:

The dividing seams of the outer fabric are closed, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart. The side seam on the left half of the body is left open here so that the separable zipper can be sewn on later.

Now you can also close the dividing seams of the lining. The seam allowance of the dividing seams in the back are ironed to the center back and stitched 0.8 cm wide. The corset rods can be pushed into the appropriate tunnel. Now turn over your straps and then iron them flat.

The next step is to sew on the straps. They are sewn onto the corresponding markings, right sides together.

Now the lining is turned over to the outer fabric at the upper edge. Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Neaten the hem of the pleated blind and topstitch it once after turning it in. To get your pleated blind back in shape, you should iron it accordingly. Fold in the side seam allowance of the pleated blind twice and topstitch. Since it is a bit tricky to process the pleated blind, you can put a small auxiliary seam about 0.5 cm from the upper raw edge. The outer fabric can then be placed on the pleated blind. You can turn over the lining after you have ironed the pleated seam allowance upwards.

Now attach the zipper to the lining and sew it in place.

Stitch the zipper from the right side.

Your new CLARA is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.

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