Schnittmuster-Hack Quentina & Anke

Pattern hack Quentina & Anke

Our stunning Quentina dress also works as a top. The accentuated waist and shirt collar create a sleek yet feminine look. It features classic elements like the collar with a stand collar, full-length button placket, and fitted cut, as well as new, sometimes playful details. You can choose between a narrow 3/4-length sleeve with an open slit and a puff sleeve with a closed cuff.

Quentina was sewn in this tutorial from a leftover cotton fabric.

→ To the “Quentina” pattern

To give you a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

Cutting preparations:

I first took 2 cm off the shoulder seam in the pattern and then reshaped the armhole because I have narrow shoulders and I didn't like the position of the armhole in the previous pattern.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces from your fabric. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

You will need fabric:

  • 2x front parts opposite
  • 1x back part in the fracture
  • 2x sleeves opposite
  • 2x Passe
  • 2x collar
  • 2x bridge
  • 1x waistband

also with insert:

  • 1x upper collar
  • 1x undercollar
  • 2x bridge

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this top you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, take the two front pieces and sew in the darts. Then, iron them upwards and neaten the side seam. Finally, sew the yokes to the back piece.

You can now also turn the shoulder seam with the yokes.

Next, we'll make the button placket. To do this, double-fold the raw edges on the front piece and topstitch them close to the edge.

The sleeve: First, neaten the side seams of both sleeves. Then, fold in the pleats at both the armhole and the hem and pin them in place. Once the side seams are closed, sew the cuffs to the hem from the outside in and topstitch them in place, keeping the seam in place.

Next, we'll start with the collar. First, sew the two collar pieces together, right sides together, and trim some of the seam allowance at the corners. Then turn the collar inside out and iron it. Finally, topstitch the collar close to the edge.

Now place the finished collar between the two stays. The notches on the curves show you how far the collar extends. The seam allowance of the curve is either clipped in or trimmed away.

Now you can attach the collar. The collar is sewn on from the outside to the inside. Fold the collar inward and pin it in place so that it just covers the seam. The stand is sewn to the other stand all the way around, close to the edge. This is how a collar is attached.

To sew the waistband on, the pleats at the front and back must first be made and then fixed.

Like the collar, the waistband is sewn from the outside to the inside and topstitched close to the edge.

Now all you need are the buttons and buttonholes and then you're done.

Your QUENTINA is ready!

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

We continue with the short ANKE:

If you dream of sewing your own pants, we recommend starting with the Anke trouser pattern. With no waistband and no pockets, these Marlene trousers are easy to sew; only the side zipper requires a bit of practice. The top edge is simply finished with a narrow elastic band to ensure the pants fit well. Therefore, Anke is not only relatively easy to sew but also an extremely quick sewing project.

In this tutorial, Anke was sewn from a leftover cotton fabric.

→ To the “Anke” pattern

Cutting preparations:

Trim the pattern to your desired length and then add a hem of approximately 3 cm. The hem width must be mirrored.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces from your fabric . Place the selvedges parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

  • 2x front trousers opposite
  • 2x rear trousers opposite
  • 1x seam zipper min. 22 cm
  • Elastic band: width: 1cm, length: depending on size

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, neaten all cut edges except the hem.
Now iron the creases by placing the trouser pieces wrong sides together. Note the notches and markings on the pattern pieces.

Next, sew the darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents to the center back.

Now sew the two side seams together, right sides together. On the left trouser leg, leave the top piece open for the zipper. Iron the seam allowances open. On the left trouser leg, press up to the zipper notch.

Now, with the zipper open and right sides together, pin it to one of the zipper seam allowances and sew it in place, paying attention to the width of the seam allowance. At the bottom, sew a few stitches past the existing seam on the seam allowance before finishing. Close the zipper and pin the other side of the pants to the zipper. Now sew the other side in the same way. Do not iron this seam, so the zipper will "hide" in the seam.

Next, sew the inner leg seam. From the crotch point to the next notch, the back of the pants needs to be slightly stretched. Press the seam allowances open.

To sew the crotch seam, turn one trouser leg right side out and slide it into the non-turned trouser leg. This way, the trouser legs will be right sides together, allowing you to easily sew the crotch seam from front to back. Press the seam allowances apart.

Sew the elastic band slightly stretched onto the outside of the top edge of the pants.

Fold the seam allowance and elastic to the wrong side and stitch it in place.

Neaten the trouser hems, press the hem inwards and stitch it in place.
Finally, iron your trousers again, especially the creases.

Your ANKE is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.

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