jacket liz

sewing instructions

Cut the pattern pieces according to the cutting plan and apply the markings/notches. First cut all fixed parts in the coarse cut and then in the fine cut after gluing.

1. Sew the front facings to the front edge of the front piece and stitch the seam allowances onto the facing.
2. Iron the hem allowances of the front pieces, facings and back pieces according to the pattern.
3. Now sew the straight darts together in the front part. Pay attention to the markings in the cut. You iron the dart apart.
4. Sew the front side piece to the front piece. Iron the seam allowances apart.
5. Now tape the armholes of the front and back pieces and the back neckline with forming tape.
6. Pocket: Fold over front pocket fly as patterned. Sew the lining of the bag to the opening and iron the lining down. Now lay the lining on the outer fabric and sew up the side seams. Press the seam allowances apart and then turn the bag inside out. Iron the lower seam that is still open by 1 cm. Position the pocket on the front parts according to the marking and stitch the pockets almost through the edge.
7. Close the center back and sew the back side pieces to the back pieces, right sides together.
8. Place the back and front pieces together and close the shoulder seams and side seams and press open the seam allowances. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.
9. Now sew the facing to the back of the front facing and then the bridge to the upper and/or lower collar.
10. Then iron the seam allowances apart and pinch them a little so that the seam allowances can spread out a little when ironing. Stitch right and left of the seam just under the edge.
11. Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch through the upper seam. Then the seam allowances are only stitched at the undercollar edge.
12. Iron the collar and then turn it right sides together again. Complete the short stretches. Stop the seam 1cm before the raw edge. Trim the corners of the collar and iron the collar.
13. Now you can sew the collar band of the undercollar, right sides together, to the neck hole of the jacket up to the snap. Pin the center back with pins.
14. Stitch the lapel corners of the front edge right sides together up to the notch. Make sure to hit the seam of the bridge. Slightly trim the corner seam allowances. Now sew the bridge of the upper collar to the lining of the jacket, right sides together.
15. Now iron the seam allowances of the previously sewn sections apart. Pinch each seam allowance a little. Now stitch the seam allowances that have been ironed apart with a one-sided stitching foot
16. Sew the upper and lower sleeves together at the outer arm seam and press open the seam allowances. Sew the inner arm seams right sides together and press open the seam allowances.
17. Iron the cuff left sides together and close the side seam right sides together. You sew the cuff to the sleeve and then sew the finished sleeves into the correct armhole.
18. Lining: Close the front darts in the lining. Then place the front side parts on the front parts and close the dividing seam. Press the seam allowances to the side seam.
19. The back part has a lining pleat. You sew these in at the top and bottom. Place the rear side panels on the back panel and stitch through the dividing seam. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams of the lining and press the seam allowances back.
20. Sew the lining sleeves together like the outer fabric sleeves. Leave an opening of 20 cm in an inner arm seam. This will turn the jacket later. Sew the lining sleeves into the armholes of the lining body.
21. Now you sew the lining to the facing of the outer fabric. Don't forget to sew the seam allowance of the cuffs to the lining of the sleeves, right sides together.
22. The shoulders are also finished with a lining strip for freedom of movement. At the armpits, sew the seam allowances of the lining and outer fabric together.
23. Close the hem of the lining and outer fabric. Note the sloping processing of the facing in the hem.
24. Turn the jacket through the sleeve opening and then close the open space in the lining sleeve.
25. Make the buttonholes according to the pattern and sew the matching buttons to the opposite side.